Character Sheet, In Booklet Form

Here is an AD&D character sheet I laid out using PageMaker. There are two files, one for each side of the character sheet. Each file has been converted into a PDF format so many will be able to view and/or print them right off their browsers. Failing that, many others will be able to down load them first and then print them using a separate application.

PDF File For The Inside of The Character Sheet

PDF File For The Outside of The Character Sheet

Also, if you'd prefer, here are the two original PageMaker 6.0 documents compacted using Stuffit.

Stuffit Archive PageMaker Inside of The Character Sheet

Stuffit Archive PageMaker Outside of The Character Sheet

Recently, due to cross platform problems, I have posted two jpeg images of the front and back of the character sheet booklet. Perhaps you can find a way to print them out. They take awhile to download, but large images tend to do that.

The Inside Image Jpeg.

The Outside Image Jpeg.

Ideally, one should print the InsideCS.pdf file (Inside of Character Sheet), then reload that printed page into their printer in such a way that they can then print the OutsideCS.pdf (Outside of Character Sheet) on the reverse side. (If you do this improperly you will end up with a character sheet you have to keep flipping around or turning upside down instead of a nice turn from left to right booklet. It may take you a couple times to get it right if you are unfamiliar with how your printer orients the paper). Then by folding that page in half you create a little booklet (half the size of a sheet of typing paper) for your character. By including an additional, folded sheet of blank paper, you will now have a rather decent character booklet that both a.) takes up little room, and b.) contains all the important information in an easy to reference, handy form.

I find this generic character sheet to work well for any character class. Naturally, there are some things on it that make it more specific to my style of play and my world, but these extra spaces may be freely ignored or used for other information.


Anyone may copy, use, and/or distribute this character sheet. You may also alter it in anyway you feel necessary for your game. To use it in its current form (a form more suitable to my world), follow the blow by blow tips and explanations below. Naturally, most of this is common sense and you can skip it, but I include it here for any who wish to read the details.


  1. The Player Information Box will help the Dungeon Master keep track of you and your character, and will provide vital information should the DM need to reach you. All of it is optional if you value your privacy, but it is recommended you fill out as much as you can.
  2. The IRC Nick may be omitted or replaced with ICQ information. If this is for a Real Life, Face to Face game, you may still include this information if you have it available. The E-Mail address may be particularly valuable for in between session question/answer periods and a little PBEM (Play By E-Mail) to supplement your regular game. Or the DM may just wish to keep you abreast of changes to play schedules and the like.
  3. The Time Zone is included for Internet play as it may help the DM to remember which time zone you are in since they may have players from many different time zones in the same IRC game.
  4. The telephone number may be omitted, but it may help the DM contact you if the Internet is down and it is important enough for a long distance call.
  5. The order of STR, INT, WIS, DEX, CON, and CHR was chosen to reflect the order they are found in the PHB. A more detailed break down of your character's statistics can be found on the inside of the front cover, but a quick reference never hurts.
  6. The Hit Dice Record makes it possible to retroactively adjust such things when called for. Each hit dice should be recorded as it is rolled. It is also fun to recall just how your hit points evolved after you've been playing awhile. Do NOT add constitution bonuses here. Simply calculate the total constitution bonus and add that to the sum of hit dice, placing that final number in the Maximum Hit Point Box.
  7. The Current Title may be omitted. It is a carry over from 1st edition and adds color to the game, but the level title for one's character class is not otherwise important. You may make up or add your own titles (if any) and write them there.
  8. Next Level At _____ XP is useful so you may see your goal without having to repeatedly reference the PHB. You need only change the number once each time your character goes up a level.
  9. The Encumbrance may be calculated from the list of items and equipment you compile on the last page. Remember to add the weight of the treasure, if you carry a lot, and about 5 lbs. for clothing in general. It is included here since it may affect one's movement rate.
  10. Current Hit Points, unlike Maximum Hit Points, changes too frequently to really keep changing it here. It is recommended you keep that information on the blank, folded insert page along with other frequently changing items so you may keep a relatively clean looking character sheet. It is included here, however, for completeness.
  11. The Base THAC0 (To Hit Armor Class Zero) is used to calculate all other THAC0s for your weapons. That information is found later on page 3.
  12. THAC0 Changes Next at _____ Level is included so one needn't repeatedly reference the PHB every time you wonder when it will next happen.
  13. Quirks and Personality Traits are optional, but many ROLEPLAYERS will wish to freely include them. They make the game more interesting and the character more real and unique.
  14. The Character Sketch. It is recommended you draw your character sketch on a separate sheet of paper using a space of similar size. Even a tracing of a cool character from somewhere is fine, and it does add a nice feel to the character booklet. When you have something you like on paper, then and only then should you lightly paste or glue that picture in that space. This will prevent a mistake or two from ruining an otherwise good, clean character sheet.
  15. The Armor Class is your AC rating when you can include everything you normally have with you.
    The w/o DEX, w/o Shield, and w/o Both are your ACs when you cannot use your dexterity bonus (if any), your shield (if any), or both.
  16. The armor class breakdown shows how your character obtains their Armor Class. It starts out at 10 for skin, then write your AC including your Armor (if any), then your AC including your armor and shield (if any), etc., etc., until you finally arrive at you maximum AC. This list makes it easy to remember how your character's AC is justified. Simply pencil in what item or factor next improves your AC in the on-going list, then write the subsequent Armor Class underneath it. Thus, it is relatively easy to subtract out various AC bonuses when your DM informs you they will not apply in a particular situation.
  17. The Ovals are for your BASE SAVING THROWS. Possible bonuses are indicated but not automatically included as it too frequently depends on the circumstances. The DM will tell you which of those bonuses may apply to each situation on a case by case basis (usually when you ask, for example, "Do I get my wisdom bonus?" or similar inquiry. In the mean time, it's nice to have the possible bonuses ready so you needn't hunt for them at a critical moment. Saves Next Improve At _____ Level is included for similar reasons as Next Level and Next THAC0 changes.


  1. The Order of the statistics was altered from the PHB for spacing reasons. Here, the information from the tables within the PHB should be recorded for your character's static scores. All of it is fairly standard with but a few exceptions:
  2. CONSTITUTION's Number of Deaths keeps track of how may times your character has died. This is limited to one's original, unaltered constitution score. For example, a character who starts with a constitution of 15 may die and be brought back to life a maximum of 15 times. The 16th time is doomed to failure. Even a full powered wish will not by pass this rule, but the DM may allow direct Divine Intervention. Naturally, this already assumes you successfully made each resurrection survival roll, for failure of that roll also brings your character to a final end. For Deaths Left : ( ) out of _____ you should write, in ink, your original constitution score in the "out of" box. The parenthesis would then be filled with this number minus the Number of Deaths. In the above example of an original constitution of 15, if that character died for the third time, they would have: Number of Deaths: 3, Deaths Left: 12 out of 15, the 15 being written in ink as this number never changes.
  3. DEXTERITY's Multiple Weapons Adjustment, Right and Left, indicates the penalty to one's THAC0 when using an off hand. This should also indicate your character's handiness - right or left-handed - though an in-world rule here says anyone with a DEX of 16 or higher is automatically ambidextrous.
  4. The Real and Apparent Ages of your character may be different. The real age is how many years have passed since your character's birth. The apparent age takes into account all unnatural aging and de-aging, like from haste spells, ghosts, potions of longevity, etc. (Be sure to keep track of how many potions of longevity you have consumed somewhere in the Personal Notes. Special consideration will have to be made for time stops and time travel, but this is rare. No matter when your character was actually born, for bookkeeping ease, add one year to your character's age at the beginning of each game year for natural aging. That way, all players can do it at once and it isn't as easily forgotten.
  5. Personal Notes / Family is used for anything, but your parents and siblings (living or dead) may have mention here. If you give ages for these people, include the current year in the notes as a marker for WHEN they were that age.


  1. A dozen spaces have been provided for your weapons. Under NOTES, you may include anything, but generally items of importance may be weight, speed factors, or whatever else the DM frequently uses.
  2. THAC0 here should already include all bonuses (or penalties) for STR, DEX, Handedness, Specialization, and Magic, as well as any other bonus your character normally has with that weapon. This way, you simply need to glance at your THAC0 for your bow (or whatever) and do not have to repeatedly calculate your actual THAC0 each time you use that weapon. All you need do is tell the DM that figure so they may subtract the opponent's AC to see if a hit was scored. Naturally, this number changes each time your character's base THAC0 improves and/or their statistics change or they use some other effect, magical or otherwise (like bonuses for high ground, etc.), but such things are not included ahead of time as you never know when they will apply.
  3. Dmg vs. S/M and Dmg vs. L (Damage versus Small/Medium and Damage versus Large) should already include all bonuses from STR, Specialization, and/or Magic that the character normally has with them or normally includes. Again, this saves time.
  4. Penalty For Non Weapon Proficiency and Similar Weapon Proficiency is included here as a reminder this will usually affect any such weapons above of which you are not proficient.
  5. Weapon Proficiencies will contain a simple list of each weapon with which you are proficient (or specialized in, for that matter).
  6. Next Proficiencies, Weapon and Non Weapon are again included to save repeated references of the PHB and the never-ending hunt for the proper tables.
  7. Secondary (Non Weapon Proficiencies), Tertiary, and/or Class related Skills have 3 dozen slots for various skills. Thieves and other classes may put all skills here which have a % associated with them. Even Priests may craft a make shift Turn Undead Table here and include percentage chances to turn various undead. Percentiles, rather than a number out of 20, also represent secondary skills. Simply multiply such a number by 5 to get the percentile score for each skill.
  8. Tertiary Skills are included on my world. They start out around 5% but may increase as the characters successfully use them in high stress situations. When they accomplish this, the DM tells them to make a Check (Chk) as a reminder they may increase in skill level for that skill the next time the DM awards experience, after which the check mark is erased. How I handle tertiary skills may be found on my web page or by following the Tables Of Secondary And Tertiary Skills link. For those who know, this follows some traditional Rune Quest rules and I find this usually adds color, diversity, and interest to those who like roleplaying games and character development rather than the hack and slasher or the like who has little interest in anything that isn't overly powerful or has little time for anything other than standard cookie cutter class abilities. These minor skills are included here for this reason, but the player may use this space for other things if they so desire.
  9. I have broken down and included Alignment here. I always use alignments in my world, but I generally do not like to have them included on a character sheet since prying eyes too frequently use such information (and not for the benefit of the game). However, it is on the inside of the booklet and normally concealed, so if your DM wishes it to be included, there is a space for it. Also, one may indicate their deity and other religious affiliations in these spaces.


  1. Generally speaking, page four includes most of the rest. Items, their locations and weights, and a few pertinent notes for said items would fill these tables. Always feel free to cross out one table heading and write in another if your character needs more of one kind and less of another. Total Encumbrance is for everything your character is carrying. This weight in pounds may affect you character's movement rate, fighting ability, and other things. Remember to add about 5 lbs. for clothing in general.
  2. A tiny space has been provided for the six main coin types on my world. They are MP (the mithral piece), PP (the platinum piece), GP (the gold piece), EP (the electrum piece), SP (the silver piece), and CP (the copper piece). On my world, I use the following decimal monetary system:
  3. 0.01 MP = 0.1 PP = 1 GP = 10 EP = 100 SP = 1,000 CP = about $100 U.S.
  4. Your DM may use 1st or 2nd edition systems (they are different, you know), or they may have their own as well. You should always use what your DM instructs you to use.
  5. Treasure also comes in many other forms other than coins. A small space is provided for gems, jewelry, art items, furs, and other valuables, but this information may require more room. Treasure too frequently changes anyway, so even though a space is provided for treasure, it is recommended you do not write your money (coins or other treasure) down here unless you plan to put the character "On The Shelf" for a while. Such things are better left for the folded, blank insert.


A simple, blank sheet of typing paper (or other paper), when folded in half will provide all the space necessary for a scratch pad, intermediate results, temporary information, or rapidly changing data. Current hit points, money, ephemeral magic items, or just the date of the week should be placed here. Party treasure acquisitions, loans and debts, current spells memorized, and temporarily carried items should be placed here. This way a rather nice character sheet can be expected to last the character's entire lifetime without having to be replaced. Only the blank pages need be replaced every so often, and they are a copper piece a dozen. (This is a joke, a CP being worth about a dime and not an actual reflection of the cost of paper).

And one needn't stop at a single insert. A third folded, blank insert may help you keep track of the game world, NPCs, and other information that isn't really a part of your character but doesn't change too often and you'd like to have on hand.

Finally, though not required, the DM may appreciate it if you include a similar, folded, blank sheet to help them keep track of things, or use the aforementioned inserts in the following style:


Such a folded, blank page has four natural divisions and each division may be devoted to one gaming session. Place the actual Earth date of play there along with any game time reference, and keep your scratch pad information for that session in that quarter page (hit points, spells, temporary stuff). The page will have to be replaced each four sessions (Or eight if you divided it even further as you use little room each session). But instead of getting rid of it, just keep it inside the booklet. This will give you and your DM an on going record of what happened and when it happened (both in the real world and the game world). Such things may not be important to you or your DM. However, I do recommend doing this as it adds more depth to the game when the player can recall information of previous encounters and roleplay it without needing to ask the DM who, what, why, and the where of things gone past. Also, when and if the DM collects your character booklets, they may see how each character remembered the events (perhaps each a little differently, if not very differently), and this varying feedback from each player will help your DM present a better game. Be sure to include your thoughts of what you liked and why and what you didn't like and why whenever possible.

Lastly, though it should go without saying, remember to write nearly everything lightly in pencil so changes may be easily made. Even seemingly permanent information can sometimes change. All told, this character sheet fits into a nice little booklet that is easily referenced and takes up little table space, so I think you'll enjoy using it.

Well, that's about it for this character sheet. Who would have thought it could take six full pages to describe a four-page document?

I hope you enjoy this character sheet. Please use it in fun.

© August of 1999
James L.R. Beach
Waterville, MN 56096