Excerpts from Henrikslekta

Ananias Steffensen

In Naustedalen, about 2.5 Norwegian miles from the sea, one will find the most beautiful district in the valley. That is the way it appears for a person who loves water and lakes. In a semi-circle stretching from east to north to west around the placid Svovatnet are the Nes, Svoen and Berg farms. The large Nes waterfall reaches farther in. Some kilometers towards the northeast you can see the great Vonavatnet (Vona water) with the well-known Vona Farm on the East.

In the Steffa farmyard there was life and activity about 1740, as Steffen Nilssen's twelve children were growing up. The fifth in line was our man, Ananias Steffensen. (See picture of the Svoen Farm in Henrikslekta, page 9.)

In Svoen there are now few marks left by Steffen Nilssen. On the first farm you come to there is a spot called Steffen Place. It is a reminder of one having the Steffen name.

Folks on the Steffa farm were of an unusually strong and good stock from Svorstøl. From the Svorstøl relationship we have well-known men like Anders Haave and Erik Svorstøl. Anders Nilsen Haave from Naustdal was the well-known layman who more than anyone else promoted the inheritance from Hans Nilsen Hauge. In his home district he caused folks to marvel over the unusually strong and well-built bridge over Nausta by the main waterfall. It is not so long ago that it had to give way to modern structures. And that spinning wheel he made for his wife clearly showed that Anders Haave would be able to advance far as a mechanic and inventor.

It was in such a situation that Erik Larssen Svorstøl showed his gifts. He is chiefly known as a good friend and helper for H. N. Hauge in Bergen. He is not as well known for his work manufacturing guns. As early as 1784 Erik Svorstøl made the first breach- loading gun in this country and showed it to a company called "Self- Help Company". They marvelled at his remarkable invention and honored him by giving him a prize of 3 rdl. In 1810 Svorstøl sent the gun to the military authorities in Denmark. They were unable to understand this new weapon, probably because Svorstøl was far ahead of his time. The gun was placed in a museum.

In a publication by G.A. Hegren's of Vevring (no date given), it is written that "a few years ago a man came from Denmark to Bergen to find information about one named 'Erik Larssen Svodstad'." This is the way they had read the name. Knowledgeable people in Denmark had discovered the old gun in the museum and realized that an unusual inventor had been the creator of this first breach-loading gun, and now they wished to get more information about this man who had been long ahead of his time in gun making.

We wanted to say a little about these two individuals, Svorstøl and Haave, as an indication that within the branches of the relationship there was a surge of talents beyond the usual.

But now it is time for us to row across the Svovatnet to Ananias in the Steffa farmyard. At the age of 20 he set out on his journey to find his fortune. A widow with a good farm was not to be despised. That was about the only way to get a farm in those times. And farming was about the only way to make a living in those districts.

Ananias trudged along on that long trek to Naustdal. He climbed the small slippery mountains to reach Sela. There was a farm in Sela where he had relatives. But now what should he do? "You have perhaps heard that Sønneve Øygarden is a widow and needs a man ..." this was said to him. "You should take a trip to Solheimsdalen."

Ananias followed that good advice and got a ride out to Bjørkedal's boathouse. Never before had he seen so many boats. There was Bjørkedal boatshed and there was Fauske boatshed, and many boats from Solheimsdalen because Bjørkedal was the last station and continued to be so for more than another hundred years.

The young fellow got over to Fengestad, and then he had only to get over Øygard's rocky ascent and he was at the Inner Fengestad -- Øygarden.

What a view from there across the many lakes! It surpassed even his home place at Svovatnet.

Ananias was well received at Øygarden (see illustration on page 19 of Henrikslekta). Under No. 1 (Henrikslekta, page 49) one can read a bit about his saga. He married Sønneve, he became a widower three times and was the farmer at Øygarden for many years. Later he became the manager of the farm for his son -- and during his last years he lived in retirement in an arrangement with the new owner.

It appears that it was in 1741 that Ananias came to Øygarden. Records of mortgages show that he acquired an interest in the Øygard property in 1752 and 1763. Sønneve also had an interest (or control) as long as she lived. We have figured out that Ananias became the farmer on the Øygard property in 1740. [NOTE: this apparent inconsistency is within the text of Henrikslekta -- I.S.]

Then something unexpected happened. In 1772, Ananias sold his farm to "my dear son, Hendrich Ananiassen for the sum of 46 rdl." Henrik was only 19 years old.

We know very little about Ananias personally. He lived to be 85 years old and had truly been a strong and tough worker and had good abilities -- in diverse areas -- and the relatives in Naustedalen resemble him. He is rightly considered the patriarch of the many descendants who came from Øygarden. But my assignment was to write about Henrik and his descendants. Henrik is named patriarch in this story, and he has given this book its name.

Henrik Ananiassen Sæle

Henrik, the main person in this book, grew up in Solheimsdalen (Solheim's Valley). The church records for Førde do not tell the year he was born. We believe that he was baptized in Bygstad, on the south side of the mountain farm. But this community does not have the church records for the years around 1750. Those people were in a hurry to have their children baptized, and therefore they would travel long distances over great plains and mountains with their new-born child to a neighboring parish -- that is, if there was a service there before there was a service in one's own church.

Other books indicate that Henrik was born late in the summer of 1753. He must have been a good and gifted son and his father was extremely fond of him. "My dear son" was written on a ship in 1772. It was not usual to place such words on a ship.

His mother, Helga Eriksdtr. Vatnelid, died when he was ten years old. We know little about her. She had been widowed before she came to Øygarden. (Vatne and Vatnelid are on the north side of the fjord, west of Helle). Although we have little information about her, we believe that she was a well-developed and competent lady. Her two children (Henrik and Massi) stand out in the family group.

We do not believe that Helga came to Øygarden empty-handed. When Henrik got control of the farm in 1772 at only 19 years of age, he paid the full price. We think that it may have been the inheritance from his mother that helped to make this possible.

In his twenties, Henrik moved to Sela. He let his father manage the home farm at Øygarden. At Sela there was a property that a half-brother of his had managed earlier. Henrik took over this property which was known within the Sela district as "Bøen".

Henrik now became serious about his medical studies. He got hold of several doctor-books and acquired knowledge as a healer -- at that time one gained this expertise by reading Danish and German professional books on the subject.

Henrik Marries

We do not know the year Henrik was married. However, from the Førde church records we learn that his eldest son was born in 1780, when Henrik was 27 years old.

His wife was from a respected family in Fauske. Helle Margrethe Nilsdtr. Fauske and Henrik were the same age. Her mother, Eli Olsdtr. Grytten, came from Vevring.

The name Grytten is found many times among relatives from Sunnfjord. In 1687, Anders Grytten was the pastor in Holmedal. He was a rich man and he had Bishop Ludvig Munthe in Bergen as his father-in-law. Susanne, his daughter, married Pastor Johan Christian H. Daae "at home, without an engagement, following royal publication of Banns."

It was a special grace of the king to be permitted to have a marriage in the home. Among the descendants of Susanne and Johan Daae there are many well-known men and women. A grand-daughter of Susanne Daae, Susanne Thoreson, a pastor's daughter in Bergen, married Henrik Ibsen.

We continue with our story. Henrik and Helle Margrethe had four children. Their married life lasted about twelve years. We have little to report about Helle Margrethe. After Henrik's death, she continued to live on the farm and eventually married Anton Olsen. He was born about 1771 and so was much younger than Helle. They had a daughter born in 1795 whose name was Helene.

Henrik on the Farm in Sela

The are reasons for believing that Henrik took a keen interest in farming. Here he also sought to increase his knowledge of the subject by studying books. He got hold of the book, Under-retning for Landmanden (Information for the Man on the Land). Perhaps this gave him the impetus for a new attempt at farming. It is reported that he built a new house on the farm. We have no record of this. There is still a good old building on the farm measuring 7 meters by 5 meters. The teacher N. Sæle has remodeled it as a home for himself. However, we are certain that Henrik moved the cattle barn in Boltehala beyond the high ridge towards Eckefjord. We think that Henrik undertook to move the barn because of his interest in improving the farm.

(See picture of the Sela farm in Henrikslekta, page 9.)

Henrik the Nature-Healer

It was especially for his great knowledge of healing that Henrik became so well known. He must have gotten his first medical book early. It is reasonable to think that he sought to help people who were sick while he lived at Øygarden -- when he moved to Sela we have reason to believe that he had in mind the work of healing. Sela was near the sea by Naustdal so it would be easier for people to consult him there than in Solheimsdalen. Furthermore, he had no doubt noticed that on the north side of the fjord there was a greater variety of herbs than in Solheim -- many plants of a medicinal nature grew in this area.

One of his medical books was Dr. Christian Weisbach's Retskafne og grundige Cuur, i.e., "Treatise on a Green Cure". Dr. Weisbach must have had a keen insight into healing with natural medicines. In this book, Henrik had a great source to draw from, and I therefore found it most appropriate to call him the "Nature-Healer".

Henrik was able to help many sick people who were suffering from various illnesses, and he gave advice about the need for cleanliness and care in the home. He attacked his work with zeal and was also interested in research. Cancer sores were one of the major problems afflicting his patients and he experimented with the use of the sun's rays directed on the sore spot to treat them. People came great distances to consult him, and he occasionally would travel into the hinterland to treat both humans and animals.

Henrik learned most of his doctoring skills from his books. That was the best source of knowledge in those days. Therefore, he should not be regarded as a quack healer because he was as able as any other doctor of his time.

Judge Rennord rejoiced when any type of progress was made in Sunnfjord. Already in 1780 he had written to the "Nyttige Selskap" company about the fine work done by Henrik. He himself sent information to the company concerning his work as a veterinarian.

A few years later, in 1786, Henrik received an important commendation from "Nyttige Selskap" accompanied by a silver cup, a diploma, and words of high praise for "the honored and brave doctor in Sunnfjord" in recognition of his work for the benefit of society. No greater honor could be bestowed on a man in those days. At that time, the king and the government were in Denmark.

Let us remember that Henrik was only 33 years old in 1786. That tells much about his ability, for most individuals achieve their greatest accomplishments after that age.

Henrik's life ended suddenly. It is tragic that he who had helped so many in their illness and need would himself die from a contagious disease. He succumbed to typhus in the spring of 1790 - - at the age of only 36 years and 8 months.

It has been stated that there is no tax on ideas. Did he fall at his post as healer after being struck down through contagion from one of those whom he was trying to help?

Henrik was greatly admired. He had helped so many in their sickness and he was a good man to come to, and therefore much loved by the people. As proof of the high esteem in which people held him, many named their children for him. He had been the only one with the name "Henrik" at that time. But, in the church records at Førde, there came to be many named Henrik after his death in 1790. My own great-grandfather was born in 1790 in Erdal. He was given the name Henrik even though no one among his relations had that name -- clear evidence that Henrik Sæle was being honored.

Henrik and his Books

Much could be written about Henrik and his books. We are fortunate that we can learn from what he himself tells us.

Only a few people could read in Henrik's time and there were few books, and it was difficult for those living in the rural communities to get any from the cities -- they would have to be brought all the way from Copenhagen or Kristiania (Oslo).

Henrik was able to both read and write. He had a keen interest in books and made great efforts to acquire them. Evidently what helped him in this was that he was near Førde. There lived the preacher, the judge and the military superintendent. He had bought Wesbach's book from Mayor von Fasting. This shows that officials in Førde helped him to obtain books. He also had acquired some books when in Bergen.

(See picture of a page from one of Henrik's medical books, with his signature, in Henrikslekta, page 11.)

(See picture of a page from Weisbach's Cuur in Henrikslekta, page 12.)

The titles of the books that are mentioned in his Will demonstrate that he had wide interests, ranging from astronomy to philosophy. Albert Joleik in Sunnfjordsoga compiled the following list:

1. N. Thychsens Chemisk Haandbog

2. Tissots Underretning for Landmanden

3. Gotschedens Verdslig Viisdom

4. Mangors Landpotek

5. Untzers Medicinske Haandbog

6. Hans Holchs Cloge Mands Haandbog

7. Søborgs Stierne - Catechismus

8. Bastholms Philosophie for Ul'rde

Judging from the titles, one with little formal education could become wise and well-learned by reading them.

The Will also named three other books: The Danish Bible, Muller's Book of Sermons and Sermons on the Catechism.

However, we know that Henrik had other valuable books. In his Will, Wesbach's medical book is not mentioned, nor is the one by Kristian on Norwegian Law. Henrik wrote his own name in Wesbach's Cuur, and in the law book he has written directions on how the books are to be divided between his sons. (It is not possible to get a clear understanding of this division because part of the page is missing.)

Since we learn that there were books in the home at Sela that were not listed, we can conclude that there were others we know not of. It was his son Andreas who came to Karstad with the two books I now have. One must not blame my great-grandfather for having swiped these two books because at the time of his father's death he was only two years old.

Anyway, Henrik must have been the first one in Naustdal with such a good collection of books -- a small collection in our day, but observed with marvel and respect in Henrik's time. We should note that in Naustdal there were no officials or book owners among the farm folks. If there had been Joleik would have told us.

Most of the books were in Danish, many of them translated from the German according to the research done by Joleik. It was not a great accomplishment for Henrik to have learned German, for at that time the difference between Danish and German was not as great as it is now. In Wesbach's Cuur, there is much "doctor Latin", and the names of many plants are in Latin. It is difficult to decide in what language that brilliant farm boy was most proficient -- I would wager that he knew most of the Latin names for the medicinal plants for Weisbach uses an unbelievable number of these.

Henrik loved his books for they had greatly helped him. It was true that he said that some of them were of little value. He was smart and could differentiate between what was good and what was poor. But he definitely was a lover of books. When death threatened, his books were of concern. He asked his wife to make certain that they be kept carefully until his sons grew up and would have the sense to use them.

What we know is that later the books were divided between his sons, Henrik and Andreas. But we believe that their mother also kept some of the books.

The settlement of Andreas' estate at Karstad in 1823 shows clearly what his widow received of Henrik's books. Among the books given to her, three were from Henrik's collection -- numbers 2,3 and 8 on the above list. These books came to Hellevangsdal, where Berta and Lars later moved; those that still exist must have been passed onto Grandfather Henrik. We are not concerned here about the books which Henrik Ananiassen's other son, Henrik Birkedal, received. I have inquired about Dr. Henrik's books in Norway and America without any success. Now I will take this opportunity to ask all of the relatives whether anyone can provide information as to what happened to them. All of Henrik's books were published before 1786.

The medical book and the law book that came into my possession are to be found in a safe place in Bergen. Anyone who wishes to study them there is welcome to do so.

Henrik's Work as a Goldsmith

Henrik also must have been skilled with his hands. His relatives tell us that he made the bridal crown for Helle Margrethe. In fact, I didn't believe this even though I am one of those who have seen what uneducated people have managed to accomplish. Before I started writing this book, I asked a goldsmith in Bergen if he thought this would have been possible. He replied that he didn't think that it would have been too difficult if the person had had the necessary metal-smithing tools.

We conclude therefore that on their wedding day Helle Margrethe wore the crown which her husband-to-be had made for her. That is all we know about this matter -- we can only believe what Henrik's grandchildren have told us.

However, this tells us a great deal more about Henrik. He must have been an able and handy fellow in a shop, and especially in a metal-working shop. No one would have attempted to make an item as complex as a bridal crown if he had not completed other difficult projects beforehand. We have no further information about this, not even any tradition passed on from son to son. None of the children continued to live in Sela or Øygarden for they all got new homes. The only reports we have come from Sela, from those living there now, and they relate to Henrik's abilities in construction.

Reports about Henrik's estate reveal something about his craftsmanship. The bound books he had treasured had clasps, and it may be that it was in making these that the aspiring goldsmith honed his craft. Also, his best coat had no less than 18 silver buttons -- who had molded these? These might have been things that a young goldsmith could experiment with.

One so gifted did not lack the ability to do wood working both for his home and the farm. Little of his work remains now. Presumably, his widow on Sela received much of this, and the children inherited some objects for their homes. And we must remember that it is now more than 150 years since they left their childhood home. The silver cup was given to the eldest son (Henrik) -- Joleik believes that it was used to pay the Silver Tax to the Bank of Norway around 1820. Of tangible items, we have only the two books. The Law book is now safe in Box 55. The Medical book is here on the shelf and waits for some gluing by someone with skill -- I again read that title page about the "Right and Thorough Cure" , translated to Danish from the 9th Edition in Strasbourg 1751 -- second edition in Copenhagen. This more than two-hundred-year- old book will help us to remember our worthy grandparent.

[On page 15 of Henrikslekta there is a very brief summary of Henrik's life in English.]

Anne and Elen Henriksdtr.

We must also write about Henrik's daughters. They were aged 8 and 4 when their father died in 1790. At that time they were living on Sela, as shown by 1801 census.

Both girls were gifted with talents. At least this was true of their children and several of their descendants. Elsewhere we have mentioned that a son of Anne and a daughter of Elen placed first in Confirmation class. But Anne and Elen didn't reach any height on society's ladder. It was a time of depression and economic hardship -- they grew up in the years after 1800 when Norway experienced war and famine. People who lived on a good farm could manage and provide for themselves and their children -- in this regard, we need only consider Anne and Elen's brothers (Henrik and Andreas). But many people became paupers during this time because the conditions on the land kept them down, and their children faced a similar destiny.

Anne and Elen's mother (Helle Margrethe) on Sela married again and had troubles enough of her own in those difficult times. The daughters inherited from their father, as is evidenced by the probate of his Will in 1790. Even though their father left a good estate, their share was small. Half of the estate went to the mother and the remainder to the children. But the law then was that a son should receive double the inheritance of a daughter. One can wonder about this. Perhaps they considered that it was the father who paid for the daughter's wedding and that a daughter would get her living when she married. So Anne and Elen each received a 12th part of Henrik's estate. That was a small sum, so I do not think that they had any of their father's inheritance to depend on when they became adults. And those were difficult times!

Prospects were poor for the girls to get homes on a good farm. The farm boys were looking forward to making a profitable marriage. Henrik's daughters were poor and there was no father to pay the cost of a wedding for them.

Anne and Elen's descendants have told us how it turned out for them. Anne became a cotter's wife in a place near Hellevangs- dal, and Elen married a widower in Mula. Henrik Mulen no doubt thought like most folks of his time on the "good marriage". But his farm was small and poor and there were many around the table, so he had to lower his expectations. But there was Elen. Perhaps we judge him wrongly -- he was acquainted with Elen and knew that he had made a good choice.

However, their farm was small and of little value. One doubts if it was farmed as well as it might have been. In any case, neither Henrik Mulen nor his sons could hold onto it.

Both sisters endured many years of difficult living conditions, and their children and grandchildren were caught in the same circumstances of poverty and unemployment. This part of our saga bears witness to the value of steady work and daily bread in making progress from one generation to the next.

We learn that many of Elen and Anne's descendants moved to Bergen. Only in one case do we have information about their situation there. Perhaps they did well, as in the case of Grandfather Oliver (see numbers 201 - 206) which demonstrates the truth of what we have written above about work and progress. We can say the same regarding Elen and her daughter Malene. Individuals and generations through their work create a new and better future -- from managing a farm in Vagane, their offspring progressed to owning their own farm in Standal, and thereby they achieved an economic level sufficient to hold a family together (see numbers 221 - 223).

Solheimsdalen
The Land of Henrik's Descendants

If a stranger comes by boat into the Førde fjord and is wondering how he will find his way to Solheim's Valley, it will not be easy for him to figure out where he should land. If he knows that the valley lies on the south side of the fjord and near Heilefjellet (Heile Mountain), it is reasonable to think that he will direct his course towards Heilevang or Mula. And that is not such a bad idea for the wide open valley north of the maountain farm from Litlehesten to Heile Mountain ends there. The valley is divided into two parts: Heilesvangdalen and Muladalen.

One must pass Nobba and have a look about, even if this seems unusual. There is the large river, and the impressive waterfall plunging from the steep mountain to the sea. No island other than this one has such a valley.

A few years ago there would have been a long row of boats. But now these are gone -- a single wharf presses against the steep hill and you see a narrow road with many turns leading towards a high birch wood that encircles the whole farm.

One will need to tackle the road with one's coat or jacket on one's arm and see what happens. Right ahead the black mountain blocks the way. The road goes directly to the right and brings you in to a narrow pass and small hills lead one along the river. If you had arrived there a dozen years ago by the old road you would come to a nasty hole which is rightly called "The Abyss" (Avkjeilen). A waterfall -- such a waterfall! -- gurgles in the depths of that dark kettle. Now there is no way to continue straight ahead; instead one must follow the sharp turn in the road, the sharpest turn in the whole path. Then one comes to a large landing where Hammaren begins. Oh, how many four-footed as well as two-footed knees were shaking by the time they had reached this point!

But the path goes on, and one must not let oneself become afraid. This place should not have the last word. Straight ahead the road through the perpendicular mountains leads on single-file and you will soon emerge the victor. Right above "The Abyss", there is a spot where you can stand and stare bravely down into the pit -- that is, if you dare to stand by the railing and look down.

It was a great feeling to finally reach Hammaren. One could catch one's breath on the level road ahead. It was like a celebration. My horse and I rejoiced that we had come so far with our heavy load, and the horse looked at me with such a friendly smile, and, speaking with those soft lips, said, "Now you may ride for a stretch!". But first I took time out for a short rest.

On the other side of the mountain there were traces remaining of the oldest road to Solheim, from Bjørkedal under Aksla and on to Fengestad. It was hardly possible to bring anything to or from the sea at that time. But then in 1855, the local inhabitants got together 50 sp. dollars to repair the road.

The valley folk had been peeved long enough with that route via Hammaren that cut them off from the shorter path to the sea through Ervik. Now they were ready to tackle the difficulties no matter how great these might be. They sent a petition for a new road to be built from Ervik to Solheim, and in 1864 the authorities approved this plan.

The Ervik-Solheim road can be said to have celebrated its centennial in 1960. The oral tradition does not tell us exactly when the road was completed -- there is, in fact, not much information available about this road. It has been said that in 1855 a request was made for the road. How shall we explain this? Was it the folks of the valley who built the road and bore most of the cost? This may have been the case since they had learned to help themselves ...

One needed to take another look at Hammaren. It was no small task that the people of Solheim's Valley had undertaken when they attacked that awful mountain -- and they felt that it was a great achievement each time the fuse on the dynamite was placed and there was was smoke from the explosion!

That tough and determined will to help themselves has hovered over the community these 100 years. We are given this judgement by many. Take good care of this strong will, for it is worth much more than many other things added together.

Now, back to my horse. He is ready with his philosophy. That beautiful birch grove now captivates his mind and thoughts. The Fengestad gate is in its place. It hangs there among the birch trees -- the same way old Bertel found it early one morning. He only commented in his special manner, "No friendly hands have been at work here." Bertel could narrate the entire Fridtjof saga.

And so we have arrived at Fengestad -- the farm with the unusual name that has troubled so many heads among those experts who specialize in the study of names.

Up at the Ingvald Farm there was something exceptional to have a look at -- a tall brick hay silo which was built by the far-sighted Karl I. Fengestad long before anyone else in Sunnfjord had thought of doing this.

And it was also at Ingvald's place that the famed director Johannes Haarklou beat some of his first notes during the winter of 1864-65. He was the school master in Solheim's Valley and he gathered the young people together for songfests. He was only 17 or 18 at the time. This story about him spread all the way to Vestfold where it was related to me 100 years later.

The road soon leads you out of the Fengestad lap, and you come into the Øygard mountain pass. The steep incline points to the foaming river below and the old road creeps in by the hill with a few steep rises and two long stretches upward.

All at once, from a narrow space without any outlook you suddenly find yourself in a wide valley surrounded by three bodies of water. The southern Karstad water stretches farther west than the Øygard waters.

Here in the Øygard hills was where Ananias Steffensen Svoen found his way. He was captured by the view in the valley and fell in love with the widow at the Øygarden farm. He married her and became the founding father of the most important group of descendants that has come out of Sunnfjord -- the Henrik Family (Henrik's progeny) from Solhemisdalen.

From Øygarden the farms are in a row by the water. Now whenever I meet folks from outside of the community who have visited Solheim's Valley, they always say, "It is so beautiful in Solheimsdalen!", or similar words. The author Jacob Straume writes in one of his books:

Both on the north and south side there are fine groves wth good grazing. But above the area the mountain rises to 1300 meters. On a beautiful summer day, when the sun shines on the blue mountain, no more beautiful place exists.

Not only on summer days have visitors been gripped by the play of the waters. One evening late in November a well-known man from Gauler passed by the Karstad Water. He then earnestly wished that he had a camera to take a color photograph. In town he wrote about the evening feeling in Solheimsdalen:

In low view in the west the evening heavens open the fairyland in gold, and to the southwest the silhouette of the mighty Heile mountains raises its brilliant contours towards the heavens, while towards the east it darkens in deeper tones of blue. All is reflected from the steel-like ice on the Karstad Waters.

For one who has grown up here and has seen the view since he could walk across the area, it becomes so easy for the beauty to disappear behind the everyday scene. I was not yet an adult when Rasmus Øvrelid visited our home. He went for a walk up the hill and saw the view across the valley and waters and the blue mountain. "Oh, what a beautiful view from here!", he exclaimed.

He kind of removed my everyday nonchalance about the scene, and from that time I have looked at the Karstad Water and the Heile Mountain with other eyes. Ever since then, whenever I have had the opportunity to stand on this spot, I remember Øvrelid's words ...

Besides this one, there are two other Karstad waters with headland points, as well as inlets, small islands, and rocks. The Lange headland and the Stor headland reach their arms towards each other, and dip their hands under the water so that only people acquainted with this place can manage to bring a boat zig-zag through the fingers of this narrow sound.

But most festive are the mountain farms that guard the valley towards the south. In a quiet way they stand in a row: Litlehesten, Kjerringa, Middagsfjellet, Nonsnipa and Heilefjellet, the castle with its towers.

The river hastens on towards Solheim. It fades away as one tries to write about the beautiful blue evening tranquillity when the sparkling peaks are reflected between the birch groves. It has to be experienced! That is why Johannes Karstad, the missionary from China, returned here every summer. Without that annual visit, he felt that the summer was largely wasted for him.

What makes the valley special, in addition to the blue mountain and shining water, are the shades of the birchwoods. This is especially noticeable when one comes further into the valley near Solheim where the birch trees dominate the scene.

When one reaches the high point (Klypehøgda), it is good to turn and take a look around. This is where the Solheim folks take their Sunday walks. They never tire of sitting here and viewing the beautiful scene over the valley and dreaming of travelling across the whole area to the west when Svanøy and Kinn and many other islands reflect the golden shades of evening. One's thoughts and being outside of the valley are shut out for a time, but return accompanied by a blissful feeling of serenity in the peaceful valley. One feels renewed and happy, and also strengthened and blessed as a result of this contemplation.

I am most interested to visit the Institute at Solheim, this place has such strong ties with the generations. There is a nice yard here with a house, and everything is well arranged, testifying to the wisdom of the foresighted farmer who developed it 70-80 years ago. If you come into one of the rooms in this spacious house you may be most interested in the floor. It is 4.5 meters wide, but consists of only ten boards -- the widest being 59.5 cm. There were large trees in the valley in those days!

How can we compare the Solheim Valley with the farm communities surrounding it? Place your left hand on the table with the four fingers pointing west. Let the thumb point northwest to Geitneset. The little finger is large --Rimma and Skogafjellet squeeze in under Heile Mountain. Local people know where to place the other three fingers of the terrain, somewhat amputated as they are. But it is the areas between the four fingers that interest us the most -- these are the four valleys that shine out one after the other from the left: Heilevangsdalen, Muladalen, which is connected with the third: Solheimsdalen. Then, next to the thumb, we find Bjørkedalen, with Fauske above it.

At one time this entire area was considered Solheimsdalen. This was because before the road came through Ervik, the Solheim farmers had the sea way to both Bjørkedal and Mulen.

Why the Henrik Family from Solheimsdalen?

Ananias, the father of the first Henrik, dropped the Svoen surname, and during his lifetime Henrik himself used three different surnames: Fengestad, Øygard and Sæle. Henrik's family was not tied to the any of these surnames in such a way that one could refer to his descendants as the "Fengestadslekta", etc. In fact, all of Henrik's family eventually moved back to the Solheim Valley. The elder son, Henrik, dropped both the surnames Fengestad and Øygard and moved to Bjørkedalen. Andreas, the younger son, settled in Solheimsdalen. Anne settled in Heilevangsdalen, and Elen in Muladalen. Each one had his or her own valley, and so we can properly speak of Henrik's family's valleys. In view of this, it seems most correct to use Henrik as the main name for the family -- especially since the name Henrik is found down through the generations in most branches of the family.

However, there is one drawback to this solution, which is that there are several Henrik families in the area, and it is therefore preferable to speak of the Henrik Family from Solheim's Valley. All of Henrik's descendants who come to this beautiful valley will then realize that their ancestors had their roots here.

Bjørkedal

Bjørkedal is an old farm like the other farms that we have had occasion to mention. We figure that more information will be found in the community histories.

It is not known exactly when Henrik moved from Sela to Øygarden, but in the midsummer of 1802 he took over the management of Øygard, or Fengestad, as it was officially called. However, Henrik didn't stay long on his father's farm. He preferred to live by the sea as he had at Sela. And that worked out fine, since by the fall of 1803 he traded farms with Axel Olsen Birkedal -- both farms were valued at 102 rdl.

Henrik Henriksen settled in Bjørkedal and the next year he married. His wife was from Herstad -- a farm far up in Naustedalen. In Johanne and Henrik's family, ten children grew up. The family history shows that there was a very large progeny from Bjørkedal -- approximately half of the 408 relatives.

Henrik Birkedal became a teacher in the community. It appears that he was an energetic and able man. The pastors chose the ablest confirmands to serve as teachers. We do not know how long he was a teacher. In John Haugen's book about the schools in Førde, he is last mentioned in 1820.

In Henrik Henriksen Birkedal's time, a start was made in vaccination for smallpox. Henrik did the vaccination in Naustdal for many years. He was conscientious and respected and had good people to help him. Since he was the son of the Sela doctor, it was logical that he was elected do the vaccinations, which was a new and responsible and trusted position at that time. The church records now had a new column to record vaccinations. Henrik recorded his own name there. It was a joy to see his fine handwriting. He signed his name: Hendrik H. Birkedal.

The next owner in Bjørkedal was Henrik's son Rasmus. Here we have generation number four -- we have little written or spoken knowledge about them. Undoubtedly, farming was their chief interest in making their living and they managed everything well.

As time went on, the homes had fewer occupants since most of the children emigrated to America. Only Rasmus' sons Valentin and Abraham remained in the home community.

Valentin was the eldest and he took over the farm. There is little to report about him. I am ashamed that I do not know more. But what person in his twenties thinks about family history?

Valentin continued with farming and made that his primary interest. There were many heavy tasks to tackle. Most of the farm has steep slopes, while some is flat ground. In the picture on page 24 we can see the residence to the left. Additions have been made later. To the right is the old home from Henrik and Rasmus' time. It was there that Valentin and his wife lived. [NOTE: this is the farmhouse where Great-Great Grandmother Henrikke grew up. -- I.S.]

In the corner to the right is the road leading to Fauske. It makes many turns as it leads up to the narrow mountain pass -- but soon the land is level and there is the fine farm of Anfinn Bjørkedal.

The last two owners of Bjørkedal, Rasmus and Martin, are named as Nos. 6 and 7. Martin was the fifth generation of the Henrik Family in Bjørkedalen. He passed away in 1967, and the sixth generation has as its objective to nurture their legacy further.

Abraham, the brother of Valentin, is placed here under the surname Bjørkedal. He moved directly across the fjord to Andal where he got both a farm and a wife and became known as Abraham Andal. We know a bit more about him from the writings of the teacher Ola Stubhaug. Maren and Abraham were capable farmers and through hard work became moderately well-to-do.

Abraham was a clever and thoughtful man and had several responsibilities in the community. Naustedal and Fauske were for a long time a single community. For twenty years, Ab Andal was a member of the Førde council, and when the meetings were held in Førde, Abraham rowed that great distance and back home the same night many times. He never failed to attend a meeting if there was any possibility of making the trip. This fact should be included as a testimony to his character. He was a good father, and his children appreciated him. God's word was honored in the home and every Sunday when there was a service he was sure to be in attendance.

Karstad

The foremost farm on Karstad is an old family homestead that has passed from father to son for more than 300 years. Our book begins with Kristian Berntsen and Massi Øygarden (No. 14). From that time until 1967, there have been three Andreas and two Henriks. Kristian's father was Bernt Jensen who lived from 1731 to 1790. Bernt's father was Jens Ingvaldsen, born in 1699, who was the son of Ingvald Andersen who was born in 1645 and died in 1720. Ingvald's father Anders had occupied the farm in 1657. In all, there were ten generations in over 300 years.

Earlier we know that Anders Haldorsen Aase had farmed this land in 1552. It is believed that he had a son Haldor who lived about 1600 and named his son after his grandfather. It could be that the above named Anders who took over the farm in 1657 was this individual, Anders Haldorsen Aase; if so, we actually have information about twelve generations in slightly more than 400 years.

Kristian Karstad is mentioned in the section about his daughter's son, Henrik (No. 147). Kristian and Massi were well established in Karstad and were highly honored in the community. We see sure proof of this in the fact that their daughter Helle Johanne became the wife of the policeman who lived on the Stubhaug farm.

No doubt much more could be told about the old family farm, but, unfortunately, pages of information are missing from the record books.

Solem (Solheim)

Some way up in Naustedal, on the northern side, lies the fine Solheim community. The name fits for there is much sunshine there.

Thomas Olsen Solheim had the biggest and best farm in Naustedalen. From the records of 1860 we learn that his farm had 75 dekar in cultivated fields and 181 dekar in meadows and that he harvested 70 barrels of oats and 60 barrels of potatoes. The farm animals were: 2 horses, 15 cows, 2 calves and 25 sheep.

It caused a great stir in the community when it was learned that Thomas Solheim planned to emigrate to America. People said that he was the smartest man in the neighborhood. He had already advanced far -- he was an elector at the national election. It was said that Thomas Solheim would be a member of parliament if he stayed in Norway.

But Thomas Solheim had decided that he would give up his farm and move across the ocean with his wife and children. It was reported that Andrea was the one most anxious to move. She was from Stubhaug, and there the desire to leave was great. Her brothers, Ole and Kristian, had already left in 1866 and the youngest brother, Oliver, was also thinking about going to America.

In 1870, Thomas sold his farm to Ole Mjellom. In 1872, it passed to Kristian Jonson Mjellom. His grandson, Trygve Solheim, owns the farm now.

Mother and Grandmother Henrikke became more and more lonely at Solheim. She had been a widow since 1858. In six years, from 1864 to 1870, she watched six of her children and six of her grandchildren depart for America. (Her sixth child, Rise, who was married to Kristian Stubhaug, remained.) Four of the daughters were living in the homeland, but in the early 70's all had their own homes. Only Martha was married in the Solheim community and had occasion to visit her mother from time to time.

Henrikke Solheim was a kind Christian lady. She loved God's word and those who came to have services, and often the meetings for worship were held in her home by pastors and others. She listened like a Mary and served like a Martha. She established a reputation for her good housekeeping. Her daughter's son, Ola Solheim, said of her: "I was very fond of Grandmother, and greatly influenced by her."

Henrikke's thoughts went daily across the ocean, and she did not forget her little ones in her prayers. The family history tells that good luck and blessings were their good fortune.

Stubhaug

In the days of the Svanegodset, there were two farms operating on Stubhaug. [NOTE: under the feudal system, the Svanegodset was the owner of most of the land in Sunnfjord -- I.S.] Later, the farmers were allowed to buy their farmland and the two were merged. Here is some more information about this: The Stubhaug family is known back to 1677. The heirs were: Policeman Anders Olsen Stubhaug, 1730-1793 and his son, Ole Andersen Stubhaug, 1767-1845. We then come to the next generation where we get information from the family history book. It begins with Anders Olsen Stubhaug who married Helle Johanne Karstad. [NOTE: Anders Olsen and Helle Johanne were married in 1820. -- I.S.]

Anders died in 1860, and their eldest son, Ole Andersen, who would move to America, became the owner of the large Stubhaug farm -- almost the largest in the community. A report from 1866 tells that the farm had 99 dekar in cultivated fields and 105 dekar in meadows. A crop of 76 barrels of oats and 70 barrels of potatoes were harvested. Farm animals included 3 horses, 18 cows, 10 calves and 76 sheep and goats. There was much for the farmer at Stubhaug to do as the buildings were large and numerous.

The farm also had an orchard area of one or two dekar -- this was something unusual at that time. Fruit trees and ornamental shrubs were planted and also hops for brewing beer. On one rock are chiseled the words: "This orchard by O.A. Sthxg" (x for au). No year is given so we are unable to determine whether this would be the younger Ole Andersen or his grandfather. There was an income from the orchard and the contract stated that the two new owners in 1866 should divide this income.

In April 1864, Ole Stubhaug got his papers in order to emigrate to America. Now comes something about which there are different opinions: Had Ole Stubhaug been in America in 1864? A reliable source states that Ole Stubhaug came to Bergen too late for the ship. The one who reported this must have heard it from others, but there is no reason to believe that it is not true. But what did Ole Stubhaug do later that spring? There were other ships that went west. All we know is that Ole Stubhaug did not give up after the first attempt.

There are several reports from America that tell that Ole Stubhaug was there in 1864. A. J. Sørebøe from Naustedal, living in California, had known Ole Stubhaug and tells about this in "Christmas in Sunnfjord" in 1932. There we find among other information: "In the spring of 1866, Stubhaug went to America and came to ... Michigan. That same year in the fall he returned to Norway and sold the farm ... then moved to America and settled in Manistique, Michigan, where he had already secured a farm." There is something wrong in this report, especially concerning the year, for it is doubtful if he obtained passage that same fall. There are two other dates that are wrong. Those who gave Sørebøe the information had not remembered the correct dates. But there is no reason to doubt the basic truth of what Sørebøe writes. He stresses that Ole Stubhaug first made a visit to America and secured a farm.

In a letter from the West Coast in 1967, there is this: "With Andreas Stubhaug (Ole's son), Ole Stubhaug came alone to America in 1864. He returned to Norway in 1865 and sold his farm and then emigrated with his family in 1866."

In his book, "Norsk-amerikaneren" (published in 1928), Martin Ulvestad writes that Ole Stubhaug was in America in 1864. He had received his information from the Stubb descendants on the West Coast.

M. H. in Detroit writes this letter in 1966: "After Ole Stubhaug visited Stony Creek in 1864, there were several families who came ..." (Stony Creek was the place where they landed on the west side of Michigan.) M. H. then names a number of Naustedal people who came together with Ole Stubhaug in 1866 and a little later. M. H. also stresses that Ole Stubhaug's visit to America in 1864 was the reason that many from Naustedal emigrated and came to the area around Stony Creek.

In a letter to M. H., he was asked if he had written proof for his statements. He replied that he knew of no writings on the subject, but from Kristian Stubhaug and his children a fixed story has been handed down about some of the things that Ole had seen when he was in Michigan in 1864. When Kristian came over he made fun of the mistakes Ole had made -- the family kept the saga alive.

We have no reason to doubt such an oral tradition. We will have to let this matter rest regarding the travel in 1864.

Stubhaug (continued)

... Our thoughts return to Ole, the one who emigrated to America, leaving behind all he had at Stubhaug. How could he sell that dear farm with allodial right? It reminds us of what Alfred Hauge wrote about Cleng Peerson in "Hundevakt". Cleng was saying farewell to his mother. She said, "I continue to dream of full sails and blue waters, even as old as I am." Then he embraced his mother and said, "That longing for a great freedom you have also placed in me."

Perhaps the words about "the great freedom" will help us to understand Ole Stubhaug better.

The Stubhaug farm was first sold to Knut Litlere from Voss. Soon after that, he divided the farm and sold one part to Ole Vadeim from the Ytre-Dale farm, and the other half to Per Indre Dale Vadheim. These two owners have been excellent and energetic farmers and have been very active in the official affairs of the community. Those sons and daughters who emigrated have contributed a great deal where they have lived. We can read about some members of this new Stubhaug family in Nos. 12 through 18.

On the Stubhaug Farm, Ole and Per lived in the large house and the cow barn was large enough for both herds. But at the turn of the century, both built their own houses. All the old buildings are now gone -- and the apple trees were cut down by the axe in 1966. The sign in the garden is the last reminder of Anders' old family on the home farm. But in the Stubhaug cowyard the 100-year-old Sæter building still stands, having been there since Anders and Ole's time -- this is what Per Stubhaug reported in the fall of 1966. In the picture (on page 437 of Henrikslekta) we can see how Per pauses on this grassy plain where the cattle are peacefully resting. The Sæter stands solidly in by the mountain with fir branches having grown into its walls so that the building will continue to stand there for generations to come.

Thomas Solheim

Thomas Solheim and his family had a very strenuous voyage across the ocean in the spring of 1870. His son Henrik (later the well-known pastor) was eight years old at the time. Eight-five years later, he told Nels Nydal about that difficult journey by sea, and Nydal published his account in "Jol in Sunnfjord" in 1955:

We left Naustdal on a sailship, and I remember how they had packed food in chests and boxes with flatbread, spekekjøtt (dried beef), etc. The spinning wheel we brought with us still stands in the farmhouse in South Dakota.

After preparing for a couple of weeks in Bergen, we sailed from Norway aboard the sailing ship "Galatia" down the English Channel where we met a terrible storm that lasted fourteen days. When it cleared up, we were surprised to see land and, upon checking, we learned that we were alongside the southern coast of Norway! We set out once again on our course for Quebec, Canada, then up the St. Lawrence River and across the Great Lakes. After spending three months on the sailship, we finally disembarked near Milwaukee, Wisconsin. From there we continued across that vast stretch of land to Vermillion, South Dakota. My mother's brother, Ole Andersen Stubhaug, had gone to America in 1866 and was settled on a farm near Vermillion, and we came to him.

Those who left Solheim and Stubhaug were strong and courageous folk. They remind us of the old Vikings who did not turn back when they encountered the first hardships. They had sold their farms and so had "burned their bridges behind them".