The Kuffel Creek plans build the camper body by starting with the outer plywood shell, and then build inward. Frame members are attached to the plywood shell, and then the paneling is attached to the framing. Of course, the wiring and wall insulation have to be secured in place before the paneling is finally attached to the framing. The flooring material is also installed inside the cabin after the walls are up. Now, this is the way a house is built - from the outside inward, and then finishing with the trim and cabinets and flooring.

Over 30 years ago I worked at a lumberyard, mainly building pickup truck toppers. I helped build over 300 wood-framed toppers, and our methods were much different. We framed the sides and then paneled them. Using a router and paneling bit we cut the window openings and trimmed the outer edges of the sides. The roof was made the same way.

My method of framing the sides and roof depend on an accurate layout of the side. I could only get eight foot plywood, and I was going to design the layout of the sides so there would not be a straight seam in the plywood shell, for better strength and stability. Please bear with me a little.

I laid out the top curve for one side, as much as would fit on one sheet of plywood, starting from the front. When I finally produced a "fair curve" through the plotted points, I'd hunker down low and sight along the line to see how it looked, making sure that there were no sudden little dips or bumps in the curve along its length. When I was satisfied with my curve, I marked it in with a black fine point Sharpie® permanent marker. Now it was fussy time. My roof was going to be 1½" thick and the top limb of my interior side panels was going to be 7/8" thick. I plotted and marked a second curve 1½" inside my first curve. I then plotted and marked a third curve 7/8" inside the second curve. In round numbers this top curve is a line a little less than ten feet long. If Mr. Hauser planned this, my hat is off to him for his foresight. This dimension proved to be very convenient for me in later stages!

The third line I plotted is a guide for gluing and clamping blocks for making a laminated top limb for the sides. The gluing blocks were tacked and glued in place every few inches along the third line. I used a polyurethane glue (the most common name is Gorilla Glue™ but there are others, also) to secure these blocks in place.

The top limb is laminated in order to form the top curve without bending equipment which I lacked. I used a bandsaw to slice select clear pine into strips about 3/16" thick and 1 5/16" wide. I laid out blue painter's masking tape on my gluing jig, so I would not glue my handiwork to it. I did a dry-run rehearsal of my moves, so there would not be so many surprises during the real thing.

Polyurethane glue needs moisture in the wood, in order to work. It will foam slightly and expand wonderfully to fill in the odd little irregularities in the wood surfaces. This is a perfect glue for bandsawed surfaces. It is highly moisture resistant when it sets up, also.

I gathered up my materials - wet sponge, pan of water to remoisten the sponge as needed, more blue tape to temporarily hold my bundle of strips together, every clamp I could find or borrow, my glue and a spatula to spread it evenly, and some acetone for later cleanup of my hands. I'm also recognizing my inner klutz by wearing coveralls to keep the glue off of my clothing.

Moisten the first strip of wood and then run a bead of glue the full length. Spread the glue in an even layer the full width of the strip, and set the strip aside. Moisten both sides of the second strip, spread glue on this strip the same manner as the first strip. Lay strip #2 on top of strip #1. Prepare strip #3 the same as strip #2 and then lay it on top of strip #2. Moisten strip #4 the same as strip #1 and then lay it on top of strip #3, the moistened side to the glue. Using the blue tape, I strapped the bundle together in three places, to keep it orderly as I wrap and clamp it around the curved gluing jig.I started clamping from the middle of the jig towards both ends, and then checked the bundle to make sure it was  bending nicely and conforming to the shape of the jig, with no voids or gaps between layers. The curved limb was ready to remove from the clamps the next day.

I made both limbs before framing the sides. I had to knock off the gluing blocks from my jig, and clean up the surface of the plywood.

When released from the clamps, the limb will spring back a little bit, but that is okay. Clean off the extruded glue with plane, chisel or knife, being careful not to nick the wood or reduce the width of the limb. A trace of glue residue is fine.

I assembled the frame using screws and polyurethane glue. I made sure the contour of the frame matched line #2. The next stage was to glue and nail the paneling to the frame. I used yellow carpenter's glue for this stage. Any excess glue can be cleaned up promptly with a damp rag. It is very important to get the paneling really clean, so it will stain evenly. I used regular (colored) paneling nails instead of a nail gun for this work. This is not a high speed production job. After the paneling is fastened down I used a router with a spiral paneling cutter to cut the door opening and trim the paneling around the outside edges. This cutter is a pretty neat deal. It is carbide, so it will stay razor sharp. The spiral is designed to make a downward slicing cut, so the cut edge is flawless with no splinters. The router bit has a "safe edge" on the end, so it guides from the framework under the paneling. If you are careful and make a target close to the edge of the door opening, the cut-out piece will work just fine for your door when you make it. Inside the door opening, move your router clockwise around the framed opening, and the bit will hug the inside edge nicely. When trimming the outside, move your router around the frame in a counter-clockwise direction. Again, the bit will hug the outer edge of the frame. The next day, inspect your sides and tidy them up as you see fit, then stain and varnish them with the finishes of your choice. My wife, Micky, used oil base stain and water soluble clear poly the next day on top of the stain. She used three coats, sanding lightly between coats.

first page the frame the floor the sides the roof the flooring the shell wiring and insulation sheet metal molding the hatch lid doors fenders light fixtures cabin cabinets solar panel tanks other stuff

If a link is "404" I probably have not written that material yet. Please bear with me.