The biggest single improvement Micky and I want to make to the galley is some kind of side curtains or other enclosure to keep out rain and high winds.
| The upper picture
shows the gray water tank is ready to receive some dishwater or
wash water. The next picture shows the fresh water filler
uncovered. The center hole is the filler. A hole at the 1
o'clock position in the picture is the vent line for the tank.
The gray water setup is similar. The funnels for the gray water
and the fresh water are not interchangeable. You can also see
that the covers are different sizes as well. This way I can not
contaminate my fresh water with gray water cooties. The hand pump in these pictures delivers fresh water from the tank, and if that is not fast enough, I can simply bend over and open the fresh water drain valve which is just visible under the trailer bed (the white and red thing.) The drain valve has a threaded plug in it for two reasons - to keep the outlet of the valve clean, and to act as a second barrier for the drain valve. Note: I have removed the hand pump since these pictures were taken. It was just too messy, and it also interfered a little, with the storage area where the dishpan is. Now, our only way of getting water is with the drain valve under the bottom of the trailer. This is still convenient. You can see the black cap for the gray water drain, just to the left of the fresh water drain, in the upper picture. It is a 2 inch fitting with a slide valve, just like its bigger cousins on the larger RVs. A 2 inch corrugated hose screws into this connection when I want to drain the gray water tank. This connection is also closed with a screwed-in plug. The plug is screwed in tight enough that a wrench is used to unscrew it. I want to make sure it does not vibrate loose. It will also slow down mischief makers. |
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| Looking straight
into the galley, you can see the storage battery strapped down
in the center. Behind the battery is the fuse panel for the
whole trailer. To the left of the stove is a dual outlet for 12
volt equipment. On the right side is a small, refillable propane
tank. This is about 10 pounds of propane, or about 5 quarts. I
had to special order this tank, as it is not a size commonly
found in my town. It was a little spendy, but well worth it, for
the convenience of refillability and capacity and ease of
storage. The tank is held down with a bungee cord. A basket kept
in front of the propane tank stores some smaller items or dry
foods used in the galley. Just above the stove is a shelf which is fastened to the galley sides. This shelf supports the upper drawers. The shelf also has the guides which hold the divider next to the refrigerator. Not visible is a length of threaded rod which runs the width of the galley and insures that the galley sides do not spread. One end of the threaded rod and its hex nut are visible in the picture above, which features the stove. ![]() |
![]() I have set up my dishwasher. Ordinarily, I'd have it set up on a folding table I carry with me. The basin is a 2/3 size standard steam table pan, stainless steel. I made the drain pan from aluminum, annealed and shaped over a suitable wooden form. The dish drainer is a compact RV dish drainer that will hold several dinner plates, silverware, and a few glasses or cups. On the left edge of the picture you can see a white plastic dishpan that will nest inside the steel pan. Everything nests nicely together and is stored in front of the battery, as you can see in other pictures. |
| I had started with
a different cooler, which had different dimensions. The light
switches for the galley lights were turn buttons that stuck out
about half an inch from the surface of the galley lid. When the
lid was shut, the left-hand switch did not interfere with the
front of the cooler. When I changed the cooler for a 12 volt
refrigerator in these pictures, the light switch smashed into
the front handle of the refrigerator. I had to make a recessed switch of some kind. The metal forming method by now was familiar to me. I cut the metal somewhat oversize, and annealed it with my propane torch, quenching it with water as soon as the metal was at the right temperature. I centered the metal blank over the cavity in the wooden mold, and gradually peened the depression partially into the blank. I annealed the metal again, and then centered it over the cavity in the wooden mold. Now, I took the oiled male plug form and placing it over the depression in the metal began hammering it into the metal disc. I used several firm but not hard blows to drive the plug form into the disc. I did not want to tear the metal by hitting the plug form too hard. When I was satisfied with the forming job, I trimmed the shaped metal to the size I wanted, and drilled the center hole and the two screw holes. I like this switch setup so much, I may convert the other switch some day. Right. Like I am just looking for something to do in my spare time. |
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| Micky likes blue.
She also made the stencils and did the stencil designs for the
galley. The designs are creatures found in northern Minnesota,
including of course our two cats and a dog. The scottie dog died
a couple of years ago, so we have since added a picture of our
"new" dog, Mac - a user-friendly laptop dog from the Duluth dog
pound. The cats stay home, while Mac travels with us. This set of five drawers holds our dishes, eating utensils, nested set of pans, knives, seasonings, and all the other impedimenta for a kitchen. Dishtowels are kept in the space above the drawers. A turn-button secures the two lower drawers. The space on either side of the cabinet is clearance for the lid struts, plus plastic bags and anything else that might get stuffed in there. |
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the galley storage cabinet is made to be installed or removed from the galley as a compete unit - one of the drawer guides is shown, above I should have made the drawers with a somewhat looser fit. When they were painted, they needed some wax to slide freely. |
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