| I followed the
Kuffel Creek plans when I made the frame. Overall, the plans are
good, with some exceptions. First, the tongue or draw-bar is
made from 1½" x 3" channel which is then laterally stiffened
with 1"x1" square tube. The tongue is 13 feet long, and runs the
full length of the trailer. I think that the designer intends
this channel as a pathway for conduit which carries wiring to
the rear of the trailer. Having built this trailer, I now think
I would prefer to use 2"x3"x¼" rectangular tube, or 2"x3"x3/16"
rectangular tubing. The 3/16" tubing will be just as suitable
and will be lighter and cheaper than the ¼" tubing. Your
supplier might not have both kinds and either tube will do. I
would use just a 5 foot length and have it extend only as far
back as the second frame cross-member, two feet from the front
of the trailer. I would have it oriented so the 3 inch dimension
is vertical. I would still use the 1"x1" tubing to stiffen the
tongue laterally. The rectangular tube would end just at the
front of the trapdoor framing. My wiring runs through the body
of the trailer, so no pathway for conduit is needed. As you see the frame in this picture, it is made according to the plans and has been painted. |
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| Second, the plans have a framed area
between the second and third cross-members for an optional
"basement" which, when the trapdoor is open, gives an additional
4" ceiling height — so that, without bonking your head, you
could use a portable toilet inside the trailer while in thoughtful perch thereon. It is not practical to consider opening up the floor trap in order to give extra headroom for using a portable toilet. You would have to roll up the mattress and bedding, first, to be able to set up the toilet. By the time you did all this, it could be too late. During the first trips with the trailer and the portable toilet, we used a different system altogether. We set up a tent alongside the trailer, as another room. The toilet is in the tent, and is then available night or day. On the other hand, an underfloor storage space is useful for tools and other items that are not needed too often. It would be possible to make an underfloor space about 8 inches deep in this area if the center channel were not in the way. As built now, I have a 4" deep storage area for some of my tools. |
 our campsite in Acadia National Park, spring of 2008 |
| Third, the axle tube determines what the
ground clearance of this trailer will be. Any space between the
axle tube and the underside of the trailer floor could then be
used for storage. With the axle used in these plans, I have
about eight inches of space between the axle tube and the
trailer bottom. I cut out the rear portion of the center channel member, to make space for the two tanks I added. I then took this piece of channel steel and welded it to the underside of the front end of the drawbar to try to stiffen it. We found out, a couple of years later, that this was not stiff enough when we loaded the trailer heavily for one of our trips. Now, I have a piece of 2"x3"x3/16" rectangular tubing bolted in place to stiffen the drawbar. I had to, of course, remove the short piece of channel, first. The rectangular tubing is then centered in the drawbar channel and bolted in. I made a storage chest which sits on top of the drawbar, just in front of the trailer body, for storing the gray water drain hose, and some other small bits of equipment. |
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| As a track
welder for a local railroad, part of my work was some heavy-duty
oxyacetylene welding on both mild and medium carbon steels. I
had a gas welding rig at home, and so I chose to gas weld my
frame. I did not relish the thought of lying on my back to weld
the undersides of the joints, so I would turn the frame over,
instead. As the frame got too awkward to turn over, I rigged a
block and tackle to hold one end at the trailer centerline,
while I held the other and rotated the frame. As careful as I tried to be, I still managed to warp the frame in a couple of places, due to the effects of heat. I had access to a small section of deserted railroad track. I parked the trailer frame over the rail, chained it down in the appropriate places, put some stout jacks under other places, and straightened the frame. Jeepers!! Don't do this, yourself if you do not work on a railroad and do not have a private piece of track!! At least, gas welded joints are annealed and stress relieved. I tested the truth of the frame sides with tight stringlines. To check for twist, level the frame at one end and then place the level at the other end to see if it will give the same reading. Adjust with the jacks as needed. |
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