fenders

Teardrop Trailer Fenders

Deciding on a mounting method

In the Kuffel Creek plans, the fenders are attached to the sides of the camper, using "tee nuts" which are embedded in the plywood shell before the sheet metal is attached. This requires knowing where those tee nuts are so you can find them under the sheet metal when it is time to attach the fenders. This makes for a secure attachment, as you can use as many bolts as you want for the job. The job is neat in appearance, and no welding capabilities are needed. There are disadvantages, though. Where the fenders are in contact with the sides there is opportunity for moisture and debris to collect and do mischief. If the fenders are struck, they can be loosened from the side where they are attached, possibly damaging the side or loosening the tee nuts. The fenders have to be wide enough to reach from the side of the trailer to the outer edge of the tire if the fenders are to do their job correctly.

I bought some stock fenders from the fender boutique at Central Sales and Surplus, (the handyman's candyland) in Duluth. These fenders are stamped mild steel, inexpensive, and decent looking. As I was getting short of time in my self-imposed deadline, I had a friend of mine do the welding and painting I had in mind. A pair of cold-rolled 5/8" steel rods were welded to the fenders. The exposed end of each rod has a steel flange with two bolt holes in it. The fenders then are bolted to the steel trailer frame and stand a couple of inches away from the trailer body. The rear edge of each fender is about three inches lower than the leading edge. The entire fender is about six inches above the tire. Because the wheels swing forward slightly as they move upwards in their suspension, the fenders are slightly forward of what perfect symmetry might otherwise dictate. I made this adjustment using "Kentucky windage" and trial and error will no doubt tell me if the positioning is correct. If I am wrong, the fenders can be shifted as needed.

After thousands of miles I can report that the fender position is fine, and the fenders are still sturdy as new. They need painting, though.

This is how the support rods are welded to the fender, and what the mounting flange looks like. The extra layer of metal is a shim between the fender and the rod.

Showing the mounting flanges sticking out beyond the side of the fender.

The fender stands out from the side of the trailer and covers the tire perfectly. The rust is from gravel thrown up by the towing car. You can also see a neat square patch of rust, where the door molding struck the fender. I need to mount a rubber bumper at that spot on the fender.

Painted fender above the wheel, and a nice new molded plastic wheel chock. Don't drive away from your wheel chocks when you leave the campground.

These are made from green treated wood and a bit of rope, a few minutes with a bandsaw and a long drill. With a set of these for each side of the trailer, I will not drive away from them.

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