In the Kuffel Creek plans, the fenders are attached to the sides of the camper, using "tee nuts" which are embedded in the plywood shell before the sheet metal is attached. This requires knowing where those tee nuts are so you can find them under the sheet metal when it is time to attach the fenders. This makes for a secure attachment, as you can use as many bolts as you want for the job. The job is neat in appearance, and no welding capabilities are needed. There are disadvantages, though. Where the fenders are in contact with the sides there is opportunity for moisture and debris to collect and do mischief. If the fenders are struck, they can be loosened from the side where they are attached, possibly damagng the side or loosening the tee nuts. The fenders have to be wide enough to reach from the side of the trailer to the outer edge of the tire if the fenders are to do their job correctly.
I bought some stock fenders from the fender boutique at Central Sales and Surplus, (the handyman's candyland) in Duluth. These fenders are stamped mild steel, inexpensive, and decent looking. As I was getting short of time in my self-imposed deadline, I had a friend of mine do the welding and painting I had in mind. A pair of cold-rolled steel rods were welded to the fenders. The exposed end of each rod has a steel flange with two bolt holes in it. The fenders then are bolted to the steel trailer frame and stand a couple of inches away from the trailer body. The rear edge of each fender is about three inches lower than the leading edge. The entire fender is about six inches above the tire. Because the wheels swing forward slightly as they move upwards in their suspension, the fenders are slightly forward of what perfect symmetry might otherwise dictate. I made this adjustment using "Kentucky windage" and trial and error will no doubt tell me if the positioning is correct. Six inches of vertical movement is quite a lot and I am in hopes that this range of movement will not be needed.

showing the attachment of the support hardware to the fender, and the bolting flange

showing how the bolting flanges stick out from the fender edge a couple of inches, to center the fender over the tire

looking down on the fender, from the rear - a bit of the tire can be seen peeking from the trailing edge of the fender

the trailing edge of the fender is about three inches lower than the leading edge, the fender is about six inches above the tire and slightly forward of the tire centerline
first page the frame the floor the sides the roof the flooring the shell wiring and insulation sheet metal molding the hatch lid doors fenders light fixtures cabin cabinets solar panel tanks other stuff