e36 Door Speaker Repair If your door speaker(s) are buzzing, you have probably already checked with the dealer and found that replacement HK speakers cost $111 each.  This is hard to swallow for speakers that look and sound like $10 speakers from a cheap TV set. Replacement 2.5" speakers are hard to find and expensive.   That leaves us with the option of trying to repair the speakers we have. Before we start - if you have a late '97 or a '98, there are air bags in your door panels.  Disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing the door panel. To remove the door panel, first pull the door latch frame toward the front of the car to unhook it.  Then remove the two Torx-head screws that are beneath the caps under the door handle. Next, carefully unsnap the door panel from the door.  This tool is metal, a stiff plastic tool would be better for the paint.  If you break a snap, not to worry,  replacement snaps are available on line for about $0.20 ea. This is a lot easier to do on a warm day when the plastic snaps are soft. Unlike most door panels, the panels on an e36 do not hook in the window channel.  They snap straight outward all the way around.  The snaps along the top are metal and are attached to the door rather than to the panel. This is the speaker housing and lock ring removed from the door panel. Note the part number for the passenger side (US) larger speaker.   I show this because I saw speakers for sale on eBay that claim to be HK speakers, but they don't say HK on the label (?).   I think that the standard speakers are 4 ohm rather than 3 ohm found in HKs, but I am not certain. It looks smaller due to the lense distortion, but I think this hole is a full two and a half inches.  Just to be safe, better pull yours out before going shopping.  Good luck finding a replacement speaker that will fit in this housing. Speaker is about an inch and a quarter deep, but this could be modified with a spacer or by cutting the rectangular holes bigger so that the cap on the back would allow for a deeper speaker. Note the tab in the threaded area.  This must be carefully pressed outward from the inside to release the speaker from the housing. This is where the speaker tears.  I put down a thin bead of Pit Crew's  Choice all the way around.  I saw a post where another guy used clear silicone sealant.   I use Pit Crew's Choice for most all automotive glue jobs because it goes on white so you can see where it is, but dries  completely clear and pliable (as you see here), and does not yellow in sunlight (at least, it hasn't so far, and some jobs are several years old). Post-Script - One year later - The foam in the flex part of the speakers tore right next to the glue within a year.  It was not clear whether the glue actually attacked the foam and made it more brittle, or whether there was just extra stress due to the glue, causing the speaker to fail at the glue interface.  We are now listening to the rear deck and kick panel speakers - no door speakers at the moment.  Put everything back where you found it, and crank up the tunes. My repair is only two days old as I write this, but it sounds as good as it ever did, and I expect (i.e., hope) that it will last for years.