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Didn't look too bad, if you didn't get too close! |
The previous owner (PO) claims the original windows "were shot" so he had someone tear them out and install smoked lexan
panels in their place. There were basically two flaws with the approach. First, they leaked, and second, the openable ports in the head, forepeak, and closet no longer opened.
The PO's work involved cutting lexan panels slightly larger than the opening, mounting the panels on the outside with a few small screws, and then putting a
bead of non-hardening black bedding compound around the outside, and non-hardening white caulk around the inside. The results looked reasonable initially(from the outside only!), but the caulk eventually
separated allowing water in, and the interior fiberglass shell began moving as the caulk moved into the space between hulls.
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Notice seperating caulk and bulges indicating deck problems |
At one window, just above the port aft chainplate, the inner hull has bulged significantly. Unfortunately, this may indicate a problem with rotten deck core, more than faulty
window installation. I've now successfully dealt with that problem as described under deck repairs.
After many months of attempting to contact Mark Plastics, I finally talked to Mark, describing my situation and
seeking advice. Although he did offer to sell me a set of original windows (for about $1000), he reccommended that I simply do a better job of installing
the existing windows and see how I liked them.
Following his advice, I did the following:
- Remove the windows, clean up all the existing caulk, and epoxy the inner/outer fiberglass layers together. In my case, no shimming was required, as it seems to like being at zero clearance.
- Clean up the alignment of the two fiberglass layers with a router to make a uniform edge.
- Lightly sand the outer hull and lexan overlaps to improve adhesion.
- Mask the outer hull slightly oversized, by dry fitting the lexan and using it as a template to trim masking tape.
- Re-install windows using 100% silicone sealant, leaving at least 1/16 of caulk between the surface of the hull and the lexan for thermal wiggle room. I accomplished this by bending some 0.10" piano wire into simple paper clips, which I inserted onto the window after laying the caulk bead (but before installation), then tightened the
small screws to snug the caulk bead.
- After partially curing, I pulled the clips and screws and put a bigger bead of caulk around the outside of the window.
caulking the holes left behind by the screws and pins, using a hypodermic needle.
- After curing, I simple cut around the edge of the window at a slight angle (the same angle used when trimming the masking tape), and I pulled up the tape, leaving a nice beveled silicone bead.
- I also bondo'ed the inside holes, which were then repainted with the rest of the cabin.
I've purchased Beckson Rain-Drain windows to replace the forward windows, and will installing them shortly. Unfortunately, I've stumbled into another soggy deck situation in the head, so that has to be fixed first.