The fasteners that hold the door panel to the door will eat the oblong hole out of the pressboard if not removed correctly. Or the metal retainer on the upper part of the door panel has pulled loose. A quick fix for this is a hot glue gun. The glue sets up quickly to make for speedy repairs.
After doing repair work on your door, most of the time the water shield is beyond repair. I do not know why someone does not reproduce this item. Go to the hardware store and buy a piece of thick plastic (4 mil). Use the old water shield as a pattern. I used DAP Household Adhesive to attach the plastic to the door (a little tape also helps until the glue can setup). Now install your door panel.


How to eliminate the rattles from the doors. Worn door striker bolts can cause the rattles in your dor. The ware does not have to be much. On my old striker bolts were only worn down about .020. In the help section at your local auto supply store look for part number 38421 "DOOR STRIKER BOLT".
Using a T-45 TorkX socket and remove the old door striker bolt. Hopefully it will un-screw easly. If to much force is applied the tabs that hold the plate in behind the door jam will bend. Once the old striker bolt is loose pull the bolt toward you while un-screwing the bolt, this will hold the backing plate in position. Once the striker bolt is out insert the new striker bolt gently and start threading it into the backing plate. If the backing plate falls the world has not come to an end. Remove the interior pice covering the "B" piller and remove the air vent duct located in the "B" piller. Now you can reach the backing plate and reinsert it back in the tabs it fell out of.

The oil pressure sensor does two jobs. It acts as a switch for the fuel pump and provides a resistance as the oil pressure increases or deceases. If you turn your key on and your oil pressure reading is above zero make this check. Don't let the large hex shape on the outer cover fool you, it's not designed to be used for loosening or tightening the sender, there's a smaller metal one on the bottom. Use that. To get the connector off the top you have to squeeze the ring enough to get the teeth to clear the raised edge around the top of the sender. Remove the plug on the oil pressure sensor, use an ohms meter (use the 0 to 2K setting) and measure from the oil pressure tab on the sensor to ground. This should read 0; any reading above 0 will give you an indication on the gauge. If it reads open it is bad and will peg the needle when you turn the key to the on position. There have been reports of reading zero but once pressure is applied the gauge will peg out. The only fix is to replace the sensor.

I compressed the spring about half way. Then I attach the spindle. Keep adjusting the straps so the bushings are going to line up with area they must slide into. Make sure your hydraulic jack moves with the LCA. As you raise the hydraulic jack, about half way up the upper control arm will start to raise. I also saw that the back part of the LCA stops moving in the upward direction. I then used a scissor jack to push the back of the LCA up so I could align the holes for the 2 LCA bolts. A big screw driver helps to align the bushing hole to the ears on the frame. Once again, work SAFE.
