How to eliminate the rattles from the doors. Worn door striker bolts can cause the rattles in your dor. The ware does not have to be much. On my old striker bolts were only worn down about .020. In the help section at your local auto supply store look for part number 38421 "DOOR STRIKER BOLT".
Using a T-45 TorkX socket and remove the old door striker bolt. Hopefully it will un-screw easly. If to much force is applied the tabs that hold the plate in behind the door jam will bend. Once the old striker bolt is loose pull the bolt toward you while un-screwing the bolt, this will hold the backing plate in position. Once the striker bolt is out insert the new striker bolt gently and start threading it into the backing plate. If the backing plate falls the world has not come to an end. Remove the interior pice covering the "B" piller and remove the air vent duct located in the "B" piller. Now you can reach the backing plate and reinsert it back in the tabs it fell out of.
The oil pressure sensor does two jobs. It acts as a switch for the fuel pump and provides a resistance as the oil pressure increases or deceases. If you turn your key on and your oil pressure reading is above zero make this check. Don't let the large hex shape on the outer cover fool you, it's not designed to be used for loosening or tightening the sender, there's a smaller metal one on the bottom. Use that. To get the connector off the top you have to squeeze the ring enough to get the teeth to clear the raised edge around the top of the sender. Remove the plug on the oil pressure sensor, use an ohms meter (use the 0 to 2K setting) and measure from the oil pressure tab on the sensor to ground. This should read 0; any reading above 0 will give you an indication on the gauge. If it reads open it is bad and will peg the needle when you turn the key to the on position. There have been reports of reading zero but once pressure is applied the gauge will peg out. The only fix is to replace the sensor.
I compressed the spring about half way. Then I attach the spindle. Keep adjusting the straps so the bushings are going to line up with area they must slide into. Make sure your hydraulic jack moves with the LCA. As you raise the hydraulic jack, about half way up the upper control arm will start to raise. I also saw that the back part of the LCA stops moving in the upward direction. I then used a scissor jack to push the back of the LCA up so I could align the holes for the 2 LCA bolts. A big screw driver helps to align the bushing hole to the ears on the frame. Once again, work SAFE.
Replacing the speakers in my 85 SE I choose the Clearwater 3-1/2" speakers that are made for the Miata. These speakers cost a little more but got the highest recommendations from other Frier owners. The first picture shows the original speaker being removed from the headrest. In the second picture note the plug used to connect the wiring to the speaker. Note the plug has a "A" and "B" marking, the "A" wire is ground and the "B" wire is plus. Depending on the Left or Right speaker you are working on the BROWN and DARK BLUE wires are the plus side. Remove the speaker plug from the original wiring harness. The Miata speakers use a narrow and a wide spade to connect the wire to the speaker. Cut about 2" off the Miata wiring harness and splice them onto the Fiero speaker harness, BROWN and DARK BLUE wires getting the wide spades. Use heat shrink tibing to protect your splice. Now tuck the new speaker down into the foam padding and I recommend testing the speakers before putting the seat cover on.
You will find that when you go to glue the backing plate onto the lens it will not seat back in its original place, but it comes close. I used a piece of masking tape on both ends to hold the 2 pieces together tightly. Then I used the fast setting JB Weld to glue it together. When I cut the red-ribbed side marker open I found there is a little more room between the backing plate and the lens. I think it was easier for me to just remove the whole backing plate for LED installation.