Gunflint 2004

I call it the Pre-Trip because Dad said, "Just consider it practice for next year." Good advice, since it gave Connor and me a chance to figure out all the little tricks of camping in the wilderness.

Our trip took us up to a resort on Gunflint Lake called the Gunflint Pines. Party members included: John Engstrom, John Jr., Andrew, and Connor. Dad made our reservation for Tuesday, July 20 through Friday, July 23, but we ended up driving from Mountain Lake to the Cities on Monday night. The next morning, bright and early, we packed everything up and headed for the Gunflint Trail.

Duluth and Two Harbors were nice stops, but I really liked Grand Marais. Just looking at the sign proclaiming "Gunflint Trail" made me feel as if I were leaving civilization completely behind. Of course, it wasn't true (on this trip anyway), but it sounded like a neat idea.

We headed up the road marked by the sign, but we soon got lost! After a few turns, we were back in town. When we stopped to ask directions at the gas station, we learned that the big canoe-shaped statue/sign was not the actual trail! So we doubled back on the highway to where the small green road sign indicated the trail. Then we were really on our way.

From Grand Marais it was about another hour to where our resort was located. Nearing Gunflint Lake, we really noticed a lot of blowdown. Some hillsides were completely wiped out. Even at our campsite there was a lack of shade that made some afternoons uncomfortable.

But the sun was probably the only thing that was uncomfortable, and it was partly cloudy the whole time anyway, which was nice. After unpacking, we moved into our shelter--a 10' x 12' bunkhouse called a "camper cabin." Dad started our supper--delicious steak with beans, potatoes, and caeser salad. We also grilled a whole vidalia onion over the coals with some hot butter. Yum! There's a lot to be said for a nearby supply of ice. We ate almost as well the whole trip.

The next day, Wednesday, was our day to canoe. It was hot and sunny, so we figured to take a swim when we stopped for lunch at noon. We canoed across Gunflint and passed over what looked like a reef into Magnetic Lake. The water was smooth as glass in the little inlets, and the wind was not too strong to paddle against. When we'd reached the far side of Magnetic, we put in by some huge rocks rising out of the lake. None of the high rocks were suitable for jumping, but the lower ones were just fine. Lunch consisted of summer sausage sandwiches in pocket bread. Very good!

We ended up canoeing back to the marina just in time--a huge wind came up and threatened to swamp the canoes, but the worst that happened was a few towels got more wet than they already were. The trip back was quite a workout. I found out what "paddling your arms off" meant when my arms began to go numb halfway back across the lake.

Thursday was a triple feature, with two hiking trails and a local festival. We started the day off with a hike on the Magnetic Trail. Dad talked about how this trail winds its way through to the other end of the Boundary Waters. The beginning was heavily forested, but as we progressed we encountered even more blowdown than before. The upside of this was that the path was almost carpeted by wild blueberries! There were so many that we ate our fill of them with lunch and still had enough to bring a whole plastic baggie home! Fortunately, the weather stayed cool and cloudy the whole time; perfect hiking weather.

Activity number two for that day was the annual Canoe Races at Gunflint Lodge, the resort next door. It was surprising to see how many people in this area were absolute amateurs with canoes! You'd think they could all keep their canoes upright...

After leaving early to beat the crowds, we regrouped at our cabin for a short siesta. Then we headed for a nearby hiking trail leading up to Lonely Lake (or, as Grandpa called it, Looney Lake). The trail twisted through lots of underbrush and little trees until we reached the lake. There were plenty of tall trees and hills surrounding this peaceful, isolated lake. The water was glass, there was no breeze. With the sunset peeking above the treetops to the west, it was a truly beautiful sight.

That night was a spaghetti dinner. The food was all so excellent; maybe that's because we had the "Head Cook" along (my dad)! The evening's activities consisted of playing cards and stargazing. Sometime around 10:30 the Northern Lights started up, really low at first, then blazing across the sky like rocket trails. It was the most amazing display we had ever seen. We watched for over an hour as the ghostly lights danced around the entire sky. It was interesting, though, that there was no color at all--the lights were all a soft white.

The next morning arrived and it was time to go. The camp and cabin had to be cleaned and reorganized for the next occupants. We knew the staff would come clean anyway, but we thought it important to hold to our camping ethics--leave it better than you found it. We bought a handy camp shower before we left, and now we got to try it out--lay it in the sun for a few hours and you can take a warm shower. It really was nice and warm, and the 5-gallon bag was plenty for the three of us. Connor even used the leftovers to make sure the campfire was out.

On the way home, we made more stops than a normal BW trip. First, we stopped and hiked up the Temperence River. The cliffs and waterfalls were astounding. On the way up, I found a great hiking stick. I got inspired when Dad said that uncle Art used to bring home a rock from every trip. I decided to do something similar and bring home a walking stick from every trip.

We also stopped in Duluth for a while. We visited the lift bridge and the museum, and we just missed a film on the Edmund Fitzgerald. We fed the seagulls some leftover salad crutons.

Well, we got back to St. Paul pretty late, but it was a great trip! Conno and I were very excited to see the place on Seagull where the group always put in, and the famous "First-Stop-Out-Of-The-Waters" Dairy Queen in Grand Marais. I can only say that I can't wait for next year!

Andrew

Our "Camper Cabin" provided a nice alternative to uneven ground.

The boys have some fun finding out how deep the lake is.

A fire and blowdown combined forces to produce the perfect place for wild blueberries.

Connor and Grandpa demonstrate the proper use of a bunkbed.

Connor does his fire brigade impression with the camp shower.

Andrew and Connoor standing near a falls on the Temperence River.