btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Tightened down
motor mounts...I did notice when replacing my motor mounts that the
rear mount was replace but when they replaced it the put the insert
upside down!!! With the new motor mounts, I now have plenty of room
between engine and firewall...Before it was murder..... Connected
atx shifter, wiring harness, various connectors....I am missing some
metal clips that fit on the end of the sensor sockets.....I hope I
can pick these up at the dealer.......
Heater hoses
connected, AC connected..will have to pump down and charge later.
Making progess little slow
though......
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well,
installed radiator and connected wiring,
etc. atx lines installed. Waiting for final parts from Bill will
arrive Monday. Have to return my lower control arm that I bought for
warranty exchange, installed it and when I removed the dust cover
from the ball joint, the rubber case was pierced at the
factory.........
Strange thing happened on passenger side
drive axle installed, I installed th drive axle into the
intermediate shaft and it went in pretty smooth - I didn't have to
pound on it or anything. When I turned away to get a socket and
turned back the inner cv joint boot collapsed and was sucked
completly in!!!!! Seems like there was a vacuum on it. I pulled it
back out and it would not expand...I took it back to O'Reilly for a
warranty exchange....they trying to figure out what happend on this
deal...never seen anything like this before....lucky me I
guess.
Cleaned the upper intake manifold, took off the
throttle bottle and it the egr passenges were almost complely closed
off. The back of the throttle plate had a very thick carbon buildup.
Used Berrymans, simple green and my power sprayer to whip it into
shape.
Now if I can only find my injector clips that I
placed somehwere where I wouldn't lose them!!!
Almost ready
to fire this beast
up!
Bob
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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When
installing the new ball joint on the driver side, the bolts that
came with it striped when I torqued them to 65 foot lbs. They were
rated 8.8 I had to purchase a small nut cracker and it took them off
with no problem. I then purchased bolts rated 10.5 and I then could
tc these down to 65 ft lbs. I had a devil of a time trying to
install the knuckle without damaging the ball joint. I had to leave
the ball joint loose on the control arm to do it. Once the ball
joint was in the knuckle I then tighted it up.
Installed new
sway bar bushings, new struts and new sway bar stabalizers. Drivers
side wheel is on and everything is torqued down. Now on to the other
side tomorrow.
I could never find my fuel injector clips, so
I bought some high temp resistance tie wraps and tied down the fuel
ineject harness to the fuel rail under the manifold. Harness has
plastic rail under manifold that allowed me to use these wraps to
keep everything
seated.
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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It seems that
I was given the wrong vacuum harness. I needed one for a 95 and I
was given one for a 96. I am supposed to be able to pick this up
tomorrow. I tried to start my car today even though I did not have
the vacuum lines connected up. On the upper intake I plugged in the
vacuum booster and pluged the other line. I tried to start the car
and nothing. Solonoid did not click.....I thought my ebay starter
that I purchased (was supposed to be rebuilt) was defective. Pulled
the starter and replaced it with my original - nothing wrong with it
and the teeth on the drive gear are not worn. I also checked the atx
shift range sensor to see if that was off....I put in my old starter
and tried to start and the solonoid barely cranked.....hmm.......I
think I'll check the battery...battery voltage was at
10.9
Jumped the battery, disconnected ignition coil, took
fuel pump fuse out. Tried to crank the car and it cranked! I then
cranked the engine until the oil light went out. Then I inserted the
fuse and reconnected the ignition module. Turned the key and the
engine fired right up with all the vacuum lines discnnected, etc. I
let it run for 15 secs and then shut down. So far all looks
good.
-------------------- An ounce of prevention
provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Tonight, I
connected up the remaining hoses. I just purchased my 1/2 x 13 heli
coil insert for the drive shaft cam to pull the pulley in alignment
with water pump. However, since it is close to being in alignment, I
thought I'd take it for a test drive. Started the car and it idled
smooth. I held my breath when shifting it to drive since I also
rebuilt the atx in this project. Shifted to drive and it
engaged....smoothly. Shifted to reverse and it engaged smoothly.
Drove it around the block and it drove NICE. Trans winding up in
gears sound strong and clean. Shift was very smooth. Took it out on
the highway and drove it up to 55. Trans shifted fine. Front end is
tight and seems not to need an alignment (replaced the struts,
control arms, bushings, etc also) I will take it to be checked since
I have a lifetime alignment warranty. Checked for leaks and found
none. The only problem that I found was that my high cooling fan
does not come on. Low speed works fine but high does not.....I did
purchase a relay and replaced it but it did not make any difference.
So the only items left on this project is pull down the water pump
acessory pulley so it is in exact alignment with pump and repair
high speed cooling fan..
This note closes out this
project!
Regards, Bob
-------------------- An
ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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fastcougar |
Hard-core CEG'er |
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Reged: 05/30/00 |
Posts: 1336 |
Loc: Kearneysville, WV | |
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Congrats Bob!
-------------------- For Sale: 1997 Explorer XLT V8 AWD
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dubkatz |
Hard-core CEG'er |
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Reged: 10/29/02 |
Posts: 2469 |
Loc: North of Redding South of Oregon
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Nice job. Its
nice to hear its running good. And i have to give you props on
the awesome write up.
-------------------- 98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake,
b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB,
Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's.
"I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Just an
update....
The engine and atx now have 5000 miles and all is
great. Drives like a new
car...
-------------------- An ounce of prevention
provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Update.....
12,000 miles on car. Had to
replace irmc vacuum diaphram. Developed a leak. Also had to replace
rack and pinion! I should have replaced it when I had the engine
out.....I didn't think it would EVER go out on me. Otherwise car
drives like new.
Bob
-------------------- An
ounce of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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F111D F |
Veteran CEG'er |
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Reged: 05/27/00 |
Posts: 635 |
Loc: Lucas,Ohio | |
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I didn't
notice anything in the previous, are you a mechanic or naturally you
can do anything you touch? I recently changed the front struts
on my 98 with help from cousin at a transimision shop. they have an
air tool that has the ability to switch to hammer only. I had no
idea how to use but it call in handy for pushing the struts out of
the casting and assisted the axle in and out of bearing and several
other manuvers it made quick/painless!  But then
they do that on a daily basis removing and installing
transmissions.
Paul
Oh did you have to replace the
HLA's? I guess that's what they are called hydraulic lash adjusters
for the valves? TNX
-------------------- Paul 98
Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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