btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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One thing I
forgot....I beginning to know this transmission like the back of my
hand! Sheesh!
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well I had a
good chuckle today. I went to a wholesale transmission parts house -
you know the kind..... industrial side of town, make a wrong turn
and you get a uncomfortable feeling, etc. I went straight from the
office to the parts house. Of course walking in, all these ole boys
were in the coverhauls, work uniforms, etc. I walk in with office
attire. Upon entering the shop, the counter person asks if he can
help me. I tell him, I need a seal protector kit for the
Forward/Direct/Coast Piston on a CD4E. As he is looking it up one
ole boy looks over at me and says, Do you rebuild transmissions? I
smiled and said only when I have to! He looked at me and then said
you don't look like no tranmission rebuilder to me!!!! I laughed and
told him a man's gotta do what a man's gotta due when Ford wants to
reach in my pocket at take at least $2000 to fix my tranmission.
They all busted out laughing at that point. Actually this guy was
there for a manual lever sensor for a CD4E on a Mazda 626. We
started talking about rebuilding the CD4E. I asked him if he was
able to assemble the piston assemblies with out the seal protector
kit, he said no way. He had to pick one up also. We talked about
endplay measurements, Reverse Clutch 2 hole lube alignment to drum -
easy to miss and will cause clutch burnout. After our conversation
he then asked very seriously about how long I have been rebuilding
tranmissions. I told him the last tranmission I rebuilt was about 10
years ago. He shook his head and mumbled something about me doing my
homework. The parts house was also telling me that in the past few
months they have been having ALOT of parts being sold for the CD4E -
gotta love FORD for this!
When I arrived home, I tried using
the seal protector on the piston in the reverse drum assembly.
Previously with me homemade tools, I spent a couple of hours trying
to get this piston into the hub. With this protector it took
me....let me see counting...... 30 seconds!!!!!!
Did a test
assemble on the remaining pistons and it worked like a champ! 5
pieces of plastic which I paid a total of $122
The only other
semi difficult assembly is the retainer springs. I have had to use
c-clamps and a few strips of flat metal to compress the
springs...patience here...nothing like the piston seals but it
requires a little bit of patience.
I tried to purchase a VSS
sensor, but when I looked at the sensor it did not include the gear.
I thought they were sold as a unit? I didn't purchase it until I
could verify.
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Ok,
The next pictures should I hope prove helpful.
The
first picture shows the C-Clamps I used to remove and replace the
retainer and spring assemblies. The metal corner braces are used to
keep from deforming the metal retainer from the c-clamp base.
Reverse Assembly is shown here.
Next is a picture of one of the plastic seal
protectors.....
Placing piston in seal protector
Direct
clutch drum assembly, I use the piece of metal to protect the
underside when I use c-clamps to remove the spring retainers. I was
trying to find something that would work, and found this when I went
to pick up my wife at her office..they were throwing these
decorative metal fixtures out when I spotted this.
This
picture is important. when assembling this reverse clutch hub to
reverse drum, there are two slots under the reverse hub. These slots
MUST match with the two holes that are in the clutch drum. If you
don't get this right, you will have to repull the trans and correct
this. The ATSG manual says NOTHING about this. Nowhere did I find
this information. I happen to run across one of the links on Unisys
site which clued me to this! Thanks Unisys. I have inserted a wire
to check if holes in the drum are in alignment with the clutch hub.
You can't see on the other side so a flashlight, etc will not work.
Shot of transmission getting ready to insert reverse
piston with seal protector.
Final
assembly in place with seal protector removed:
-------------------- An ounce of prevention provides
a pound of cure!
Edited by unisys12
(12/04/04 12:02 AM)
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well today I
was planning on adding the final pictures but ran into a problem.
When I was at a key point, I did a pressure check of the piston
assemblies. What this test does is that it checks if the pistons
move within their bore and correctly move the clutch assemblies. If
you get hissing or don't hear the pistons move then you have a
problem. I first checked the servo assembly. Upon using compressed
air 40 psi, I heard solid movement when I stopped applying air and
then took the nozzle away from the test plate, the remaining air in
the assembly came out from where I removed my nozzle. An indication
of excellent sealing. I tried this with the low/reverse assembly and
same thing, excellent movement of the piston and proper backflow of
air when removing the nozzle. When I tried this with the Reverse and
the Forward and the Direct clutch, I would get piston movement on
two of them, but the air was escaping fast, the third I had no
movement at all.
I pulled the assembly took it apart and
checked all seals they were fine. I did read that the Forward
Direct/Coast drum assembly can and does develop a hairline crack
from high fluid pressures because of valve body wear, I must have
took this assembly apart three times and tested it three times with
pretty much the same result. I'm going to purchase a new forward
direct/coast drum housing. I've checked everyting else and I suspect
this is the problem. This would also lead me to believe this is why
I lost foward movement on my trans. I will be ordering from Bill
tomorrow and probably will continue with this on Thursday or
Friday.
In spite of the problems, this has been fun. I've
learned alot and now know this tranmission inside and out to be
sure!!!!! Oh yes, when I was putting on the speedometer gear on the
differentail (this is where the vss is driven from) the plastic gear
is a snap on fit on top of the differential. I was using light taps
with a rubber mallet and it broke.....I'm glad it happened here and
not after I had the transmission together. Another small problem I
found was when I was separating the case halves I head to beat with
a rubber mallet for quite sometime - I was being careful, until the
case halves came apart. When I put the case halves back to gether it
still was very tough to get them together. After checking a few
items on why this was a problem, I found the bottom guide pin was
getting stuck in it's bore. I finally took a circular file and
reamed it out some. Case now drops in place perfectly.....I'm glad I
did this, I don't like putting the halves together when it is so
tough....might have has something installed correctly which I would
forever worry about.
-------------------- An ounce
of prevention provides a pound of cure!
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unisys12
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Hard-core CEG'er |
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Reged: 09/08/02 |
Posts: 3944 |
Loc: Corinth, MS | |
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Thanks for the
awsome update and glad you found some useful info from the links on
my site.
-------------------- Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This
storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well for a
direct/coast clutch housing from Ford the price was a little over
$200. With a local transmission supply house, I was able to purchase
an aftermarket housing for $90.00 Apparently with the aftermarket
housing, it will work for other years other than 95 - 98 as well as
for 4 cylinder engiens, if the thick steels are used. Standard
steels in kit are .078, there is an option to purchase .118 steels
if needed. This housing is a bit taller than my old unit, so I will
definitely have to recheck endplay and reshim to keep everything
straight. Also on my direct cluctch pack, I have a little too much
play, if I got to thick steels - 4 of them, I will be out of spec.
The other way to adjust clearance is to purchase different thickness
snap rings. Standard clearance on endplay for direct clutch pack is
.02 to .04 inches. I have something like .05 to .06. Purchasing the
thicker snap rings will solve this problem. As I understand it,
regardless of whether you have thin or thick steels, the endplay
under the snap ring is what counts. The other side of the housing
checked out with an endplay of a kinda tight .02 -- I rather have
them a bit tight rather than too much endplay!!! The biggest deal in
this trans is endplay, endplay, endplay.
Reverse clutch pack
endplay check Direct clutch endplay check Coast Clutch endplay
check Low/Reverse endplay check differential planet to housing
endplay check - to align it up with the drive
sprocket
Differential endplay to TC case And Drive
sprocket to TC housing
Sounds like a lot but it really isn't,
just measure carefully and take your time.
My old
direct/coast housing did have a big time crack that I found
tonight!!!! For an aftermarket cost of $90, it probably is a must
item to replace. this housing takes a beating to say the
least!!
Bob
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well, I
reassembled my Direct/Coast housing assembly. Had to purchase one
thick steel for direct clutch to bring endplay in spec. Cost
$3.00
I put assembly in case for pressure test and began to
pressure test ports when my friggin EBAY special less 30 day old air
compressor blew up. No more compressed air. There goes my *$(%*$(%*
$45 dollars!!!!!
I'm going down to Home Depot and get me a
small unit. Anyone want a pancake compressor for a good price 
I'll
pressure check tomorrow and let you all know the
results.
-------------------- An ounce of
prevention provides a pound of cure!
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btrautman |
CEG'er |
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Reged: 11/13/01 |
Posts: 1176 |
Loc: Austin, TX. | |
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Well, I went
to Harbor Tools today and picked up a nice oil driven compressor 2
hp 2 gal tank for $100. Seller of unit bought on Ebay did offer to
replace unit when I sent this one back. Don't really know if it is
worth it.
I did perform the pressure checks today.
Everything worked great EXCEPT the reverse piston would not move. I
had a big time leak! I pulled it apart checked it and it is fine,
Whe reinserting the piston into the housing with the seal protector,
I noticed that the air pressure created gave way through the check
valve. Checking more closely, the check valve looks like it is
defective. Local transmission house will sell me a rebuilt reverse
housing for 35 dollars. Heading over there now to pick it
up!
-------------------- An ounce of prevention
provides a pound of cure!
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unisys12
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Hard-core CEG'er |
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Reged: 09/08/02 |
Posts: 3944 |
Loc: Corinth, MS | |
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Just to let
you know, so you don't feel so bad - when mine was rebuilt, they had
to replace all the this same stuff. So don't feel like you keep
running into a wall.
-------------------- Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS
262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K
"This
storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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TourDeForce |
Hard-core CEG'er |
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Reged: 03/04/03 |
Posts: 7117 |
Loc: West Palm Beach, FL - Going to Jupiter
someday | |
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You're also
quite right about endplay. When I rebuilt my Mazda tranny, I used
all new steels just 'cause they came with the master rebuild kit.
As I read through my resources, I discovered the specs &
checked the numbers with old vs new steels just to see what kind of
wear I had. The old steels were undersized by 3x spec. The tranny
was seriously burned up. New steel brought it to the very tightest
limit of spec.
-------------------- Must be that
jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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