Cutting the forms and setting up the boxbeam:

After the design has been finalized, the KayakFoundry software has output the shapes to the printer. These are pasted to plywood to create building forms.

stripper_forms.jpg


Next, the forms are attached to the box-beam, which will keep the building forms aligned and spaced properly during construction.

stripper_forms_on_boxbeam.jpg


Establishing the stripping pattern:

In the next picture, the form has been flipped upside down, and 9 strips have been added to the forms.  Starting at the bottom: a strip has been stapled to the form to establish the seam between hull and deck. Another strip had been glued to it. A western red cedar strip has established the waterline of the hull. A white cedar strip has been glued to it. Lastly, a strip has established the centerline of the keel. Kind of pitiful for 3+ hours work.

Notice how the waterline and shearline are quite close together in the middle of the hull, but diverge in the ends. I think it will look cool if I make the strips on the side come up parallel to the waterline, and meet that sweeping shear. This order of assembly will also make it easier to use some of the shorter length strips that I have. All that white cedar is 12 feet long, and the red cedar is 10 feet long. That means that if a full-length piece is needed, I must scarf two short pieces together. Incidentally, that is why you see the spring clamps all over the place. They are holding scarf joints while the glue dries.

stripper_9_strips.jpg 
 
  Another view of my big nine-strip night. I had to screw a couple of cleats right into form #2 to get the strips to hold to the form. I wrapped some tape around the strips between forms in a few places.

stripper_9_strips_bow.jpg 


Tools:

Some tools of the trade: Clockwise from 12:00:  Titebond II glue, T-50 stapler loaded with 9/16" staples, Low angle block plane, tape measure, Japanese razor saw with one edge for ripping and the other edge for cross-cutting, paper with some notes on it, too-old Makita cordless drill, one bazillion clamps, pens and pencils, all siting on an old Black and Decker Workmate stand/vise. Missing from picture: big stereo that you had in college but your wife will not let you keep in the house, college-boy refrigerator filled with beer. Band-aids. Duct tape.

stripper_tools.jpg 
 


Filling in the gaps:

Strips have been added, starting at the water stripe, and working downward. With the stripping pattern that I have chosen, the next strip closed the gap in the middle of the hull. Each successive strip from then on gets shorter and shorter, Until the area is filled. The bow required 13 more strips in addition to the original four.

stripper_bow_filled.jpg


The exterior stem

All those strip-ends are looking kind of raggety. I'll plane the stem, and glue a strip to it, which will tie everything together, and neaten up the appearance.

I start with a Japanese razor saw.

stripper_saw_stem_1.jpg

stripper_saw_stem_2.jpg


Next, I use the low-angle block plane to flatten out the stem. Guess what? You really should take out some staples if you ever attempt this. I forgot one, and put a gouge in the cutting edge of the plane iron. That resulted in 10 minutes in the "penalty box", grinding away to re-sharpen the plane iron.

stripper_plane_stem.jpg

Next, a strip is glued on.

After the glue dries, the excess is planed away.


Continuing to the bottom:

The stripping is getting easier now. There is getting to be less force required to get the strips to fit in the ends of the hull. Here, a strip has been planed to fit, and glue is applied.

stripper_glue.jpg

The strip is fit into place, and a few staples hold it to the form while the glue dries.

stripper_staple.jpg

Finally, the bottom of the hull has been filled. I had to plane off the bead and cove from those last couple of strips to get them to assemble.

stripper_hull_done_1.jpg


Thgat's a lot of glue to plane off there in the center.
stripper_hull_done_2.jpg


On to the deck:

The hull has been flipped, and the first strip of the deck has been hot-glued in place. Next, two strips have been placed at the centerline. A few full-length strips have been added at the shear, until the deck has been stripped past where the cockpit recess cutout will be. At this point, I can use short strips terminating in the cockpit. Now, I add strips starting from center, and moving out. I'm just using some hot melt glue and clamps to hold down each strip while the glue dries between the strips.

stripper_start_deck_1.jpg


Once in a while, I use masking tape to pull hte strips tighter together while the glue dries.
stripper_start_deck_2.jpg