I prepared a workspace in the attic above my garage.  I built a table from three discarded lauan doors placed lengthwise atop legs made from 2x4s. The result is a flat, long work surface 28 inches wide by over twenty feet long.

Next, I collected tools, and invested in a good respirator. (Epoxy gives off fumes while it is curing.)

The kit arrived in three boxes, the largest of which housed the long plywood parts.

The plywood came pre-lofted. However, plywood manufacturers generally produce in 4 by 8 foot sheets. This means that the various plywood components, which were shipped less than eight feet long, had to be joined to full length (17-18 feet) panels.  Right and left halves of the bottom, sides, and shear clamps were assembled by epoxying the scarfed joints together.  In this picture, the shear clamps (3/4" by 1" strips) have been epoxied to the side panels, an operation requiring the use of almost every clamp that I own.
 

Stitching

Next, .062 inch holes are drilled all around the bottom panels, and through  the bow and stern areas of the side panels. Copper wires are then inserted and twisted along the keel line and the bow and stern. A spreader stick was inserted between the side panels to give it a "boat" shape, and these were placed upside down on sawhorses. Next, the bottom panels were laid atop the side panels, separated by scrap lattice wood. At this point, the holes along the chine edge of the side panel were drilled to match the holes in the bottom. I worked starting at the bow: aligning, drilling, and wiring four or five holes port and starboard, continuing toward the stern.  When this operation is complete, the boat resembles a thin, leaky canoe with whiskers. The hull shape is well defined, and I am amazed at how stiff and light the structure is at this point.